My Avanza is by default built to be understeer, just like all FWD and average RWD cars in the market. I hate the feeling of understeer as there nothing much you can do except releasing gas pedal. On the other hand, if oversteer, u get do try out counter steer, fish tail, the sensitivity of your spin, seating position, steering holding position, all matters. Very technical to be exact and I love experiment with it all the time.
For the same reason, I run different combination to test the tyre's wet and dry grip. I can set the car up to oversteer in the wet or on dry. Yes, agree with T2, it depends on the thread balance even though same make and thread pattern.
I have ran 50% front and botak rear of the same kind, can still fly 120kph in heavy down pour, in the straights la...

switch them with botak front, 50% rear, great oversteer in the dry but nightmare to drive in the wet, aquaplan all over..
Through time, our rear wear faster than the front, so as your rear wear, your dry traction at the rear improve and wet traction suffers. Rotating tyre is not possible with staggered set up, but even like us non staggered, we try not to rotate because the tarmac contact surface need to re-bedding in once the tyre is rotated to a new spot due to the slight difference in camber degree. More so between our front and rear. Our front and rear camber variance is almost 1 degree. After rotation, the feel of the car sucks.. u won't have the confidence to exceed 200kph for sure.
Understand your traction limit is very important, for different tyres, for different wear percentage. That's why I skid and slide when possible..
The most popular public awareness writeup or video clip was the one that teaches the public to put better thread or new tyres at the rear while keeping the lesser thread tyre at the front. I hate this concept as it doesn't work for me. I do exactly the opposite.