Me and my E36

[sadhish]

Hi guys,I hope you don't mind but I'm starting a new thread to chronicle my journey with my E36 328i. Hopefully cover repairs and also mods as I go along.My ride is a year E36 year 1996 328i. The millage when I got it was 149,080.This car came with zero mods. Everything is stock. Even the kidney grill is the non-facelifted version. The rims are the standard 15" that came with the car. The ICE is the old Blaupunkt headunit and the corresponding CD changer.The interior is reasonably well kept. The leather is tired but still ok. The dashboard is almost flaw free. The steering wheel appears to have been re wrapped. Everything seems to be in working condition. The toolset is complete with the spare tire and also the first aid kit. The owner even kept the user manuals.The car has been repainted with a second grade paint job. It's not horrible but it's not wonderful either. The color is some form of greyish black. Repairs thus far: Oil Filter: 42 Engine Oil Sump Gasktet 88 Water hose cylinder head to throttle 63 Longshaft coupling 129 P/steering rack repair kit + overhaul 380 P/s screw washer(4x Rm1.50) 6 Fan Shroud (it warped) 128 Engine Oil (Shell Fully synth) (8L) 435.80 P/S oil 30 Front (RH) window Rubber (window cannot close) 188 Fluid valve 22 Light Switch 169 Wiper O-ring 8 Wiper Pump Motor 45 Labour 380 1st Repair bill total 2113.80Mods thus far: White lamp (front signal) 220 Fender signal lamp 1081st Mod bill total 328Repairs plan for next 6 months Absorbers needs to be changed. Overhaul suspension system 2k? Tires. 1k? Oil Change(buying my own this time! Thanks anxious for the tip)300 Filter 40 Microfilter 60 Airfilter? (looks new to me) Total 4kMods plan for next year. 17" Rims. 2k? (With trade in) Headlights (will try to polish, else change) RM400 ? Taillights RM500 ? Tinting 1.5k? Total 4.5kOf course this are estimates.Please share any/all your inputs.Thanks,Sadhish

 

[gothseph]

couldn't suggest u mate... me in sarawak... double up u'r price then you'll get sarawak's pricing!

 

[sadhish]

Compression test and Valve cleaning

Hi guys,

I went to M Power in Air Itam to do a compression test and while I was there, they sold me on come engine and valve cleaning thingy.

Anyway the damage is :
Compression test x2 (Once before the clean and once after): RM80
VALCLEAN Set (1 bottle pour into my petrol, the other he feed into the valves: RM120
The sparks plugs looks like they were going to go anytime,
also the porcelain part was leaking oil. They salestalked me into going for the bosch super 4 RM110

Compression test results Values in BAR(PSI)
Before the cleaning After
Cylinder 1 8 (116) 9.4 (136)
Cylinder 2 10 (145) 9.6 (139)
Cylinder 3 10 (145) 9.8 (142)
Cylinder 4 9.6 (139) 9.2 (133)
Cylinder 5 9.5 (137) 8.9 (129)
Cylinder 6 9.4 (136) 8.7 (126)

The number appear to be a bit low compared to some of the results that you guys have posted. I assume it's the gauge itself. As I understand it, as long as the variance between the highest and lowest is not too far apart then everything is fine and dandy?

My lowest value was about 88% of the highest value so I guess it's not too bad?

Thanks again for any input

 

[anxious]

After I changed my cylinder head and my compression reading was b/w 150-155.

Before that it was :-

Cylinder No 1 150
Cylinder No 2 150
Cylinder No 3 70
Cylinder No 4 160
Cylinder No 1 155
Cylinder No 1 160

I guess you readings are ok as the variance isnt too much.

Any expert advise out there?

 

[turbology]

They salestalked me into going for the bosch super 4 RM110

After
Cylinder 1 9.4 (136)
Cylinder 2 9.6 (139)
Cylinder 3 9.8 (142)
Cylinder 4 9.2 (133)
Cylinder 5 8.9 (129)
Cylinder 6 8.7 (126)

uh-oh.
maximum difference between cylinders should be only 7psi.
Sorry to tell you this, but you have to rebuilt your engine soon.
I thought you check the compression BEFORE you bought the car ?
Was the test done at engine operating temperature (hot) ?

maximum compression (140+ psi) should be archeived after 4-6 cranks.
Why after the "cleaning", compession drop from cylinder 2 to cylinder 6 ??

The only way that I know that "CLEAN" valves/engine is to use Fuel System Cleaner (pour into gas tank), or a good full-tank of higher cleaning gasoline ( Techron ? V-power ? )

You should drive the car with few full tanks, and redo the compression test. Probably a good idea at difference place.

Good luck

 

[climenta]

Hi guys,

I went to M Power in Air Itam to do a compression test and while I was there, they sold me on come engine and valve cleaning thingy.

Anyway the damage is :
Compression test x2 (Once before the clean and once after): RM80
VALCLEAN Set (1 bottle pour into my petrol, the other he feed into the valves: RM120
The sparks plugs looks like they were going to go anytime,
also the porcelain part was leaking oil. They salestalked me into going for the bosch super 4 RM110

Compression test results Values in BAR(PSI)
Before the cleaning After
Cylinder 1 8 (116) 9.4 (136)
Cylinder 2 10 (145) 9.6 (139)
Cylinder 3 10 (145) 9.8 (142)
Cylinder 4 9.6 (139) 9.2 (133)
Cylinder 5 9.5 (137) 8.9 (129)
Cylinder 6 9.4 (136) 8.7 (126)

The number appear to be a bit low compared to some of the results that you guys have posted. I assume it's the gauge itself. As I understand it, as long as the variance between the highest and lowest is not too far apart then everything is fine and dandy?

My lowest value was about 88% of the highest value so I guess it's not too bad?

Thanks again for any input

Seriously, if I were you I'd put aside some urgent moolah for an engine rebuild. From what I've read here, healthy compression figures for a car between 10-15 years of age are from at least 10 - 12 BAR (average of 6-8 cranks per cyclinder to measure at least a few full strokes). If it's higher than 12 BAR, your engine is still in very good shape.
Bet you'd have problems cranking up your car after few days of inactivity. Good luck man, keep us posted

 

[shk318]

just out of curiousity, what are the symptoms of having low pressure???

maybe engine sound? or heavy vibration? etc

 

[sadhish]

Hi All,

Thanks for the inputs. Ya the values do look low to me. However the guys in M Power seems to be not too familiar with BMWs. They had no idea about the proper value that this engine should give. Also they were using a non-conventional gauge. The gauge only gave values in BAR not PSI. I will take it to another mechanic for a proper test.

Aside from the readings, the engine doesn't seem to be having any side effects. It's a bit loud during idle, but no vibration or anything. I've done about 800km with the car so far. No black oil lost. So aside from the test I have no systems. I've no problems starting the car in the mornings even when it's rain all night last night. It starts after 1 crank, 2 at the most. I do not perceive any lost of power at any rpm. The engine note sounds ok to me. The exhaust

I will definitely keep you guys updated once I get other results. Thanks for all these feedbacks. I really appreciate them. Better to know first and then prepared then to be caught unaware.

turb: The drop is explained that there might be carbon deposits that sit on top of the piston head. This will cause the psi to be higher then what it should be. The cleaning removes this so there will be a slight drop. Also there's like two kind of valves; one for petrol, the other for air. So one bottle was push into my petrol tank, the air through the air intake thingy.
The increase is caused by cleaning the carbon deposits that are on the valves. Carbon deposits there will prevent the valves from closing properly causing a lost of pressure. This is what he told me haha. To be fair he told me before he did the cleaning not after we got the results.

 

[anxious]

Seriously, if I were you I'd put aside some urgent moolah for an engine rebuild. From what I've read here, healthy compression figures for a car between 10-15 years of age are from at least 10 - 12 BAR (average of 6-8 cranks per cyclinder to measure at least a few full strokes). If it's higher than 12 BAR, your engine is still in very good shape.
Bet you'd have problems cranking up your car after few days of inactivity. Good luck man, keep us posted

10 Bar = 145 psi
12 Bar = 174 psi

Based on that your readings of 126-136 psi seem to be a bit low.

You can do a compression test at Chu Seng's place and ask him his opinion on the readings.

I guess that most people wont even bother to do a compression test unless there is something wrong with the car.

As the doesnt seem to be an imminent problem with the car , you could probably drive it around and then decide whether you want to do an overhaul the engine.

Judging from your post I guess you want the car to be as close as possible to new. If so then you may need to consider an overhaul sometime soon.

Firstly identify all that you need to get done.

Then, you prioritise the repairs.

eg Suspension, Gearbox, Engine, Bushes etc

Painting, Tinting, Stereo can come later

Cheers.

 

[turbology]

....Also they were using a non-conventional gauge

....Also there's like two kind of valves; one for petrol, the other for air. So one bottle was push into my petrol tank, the air through the air intake thingy.

Go different shop with a "conventional" guage.
The only two kind ofvalves that I know : intake valves & exhaust valves.
Like I said, time to vist other workshop.

Remember to drive around with Techron or V-power gasoline, maybe adding a bottle of fuel cleaner at each full-tank filled. Then go do compression test again.

Cheers.

 

[sadhish]

So I went to Chu Seng

Hi all,

Actually I felt no real panic, because the engine to me is just fine. I feel that if there's something wrong with it, there should be a noticeable difference (or rather disturbance). Anyway, my brother felt really bad, coz although I told him to ask the mechanic to do a compression test, the mechanic refused and he didn't push it. He offered to pay 50% of the overhaul cost so maybe I should do a overhaul even if the engine is fine hahahaha.

To ease his misery, and my second guessing all the time. I went to Chu Seng earlier. My what a difference. He waited until my engine was absolutely cold (as in until it was in ambient temperature) before starting the test.
Then he did the following.
1. Unfused the fuel pump
2. Remove all the spark plugs
3. Screw in the gauge then crank the engine a few times with the throttle at full open.

The readings were: 100; 110; 110; 115; 115; 110 psi.

According to him, it's great. He said that the engine is purring fine.. There's nothing wrong with it.

As a aside, I asked him to check my suspension system to see if I need to change anything, he said, the ball joints, mounting and bushes are new and in good condition. So it's purely an absorber change. The tie rod is in good health. My current absorber is Sach and he said that it's in good health, and if I think it's soft then I should go for the Bilstein yellow, coz there won't be much difference for the Bilstein Black.

Also he told me to sleep well. It's a really nice car in good condition. Hahaha sweet words to hear from your mechanic.

Turbology: What would I notice if the psi of the compression test is low? Vibration? Lost of power? Could you describe what symptoms I would be seeing? Also what's a fuel cleaner? Any brand or recommendation?

Anxious: Yeah you are right. I would want to slowly restore it to a like new condition.

 

[turbology]

Then he did the following.
1. Unfused the fuel pump
2. Remove all the spark plugs
3. Screw in the gauge then crank the engine a few times with the throttle at full open.

The readings were: 100; 110; 110; 115; 115; 110 psi.

That is a MUCH better result, but...

Why *beep* *beep* he wait until your engine is absolutely cold ?
Compression test should be done WHEN ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE (HOT!)
What is wrong with all these "half-water" mechanic... *walau*

He did everything ALMOST right, but:
1. engine must be at operating temperature
2. DME fuse must be removed too (better)

the variant now is 5psi.. which is good.
And "assume" the psi will be higher when engine is hot & engine oil is still "up there", I would say your engine is fine.
Time's to go out and have some fun. Dont' forget the hit the rev limiter.


p/s: You need a E36 service manual, and slap the mechanic with it
There is a link to E36 service manual PDF somewhere... just posted recently

 

[turbology]

What would I notice if the psi of the compression test is low? Vibration? Lost of power? Could you describe what symptoms I would be seeing? Also what's a fuel cleaner? Any brand or recommendation?

just to name a few:
loss in power
vibration
high fuel consumption
loss of engine oil
lower spark plugs life
lower sensors/O2 sensor life
smoke from exhasut

and most important: lack of Sheer Driving Pleasure

 

[JOKER]

couldn't suggest u mate... me in sarawak... double up u'r price then you'll get sarawak's pricing!

hey dude, which engine in your e36?
ever test in Kuc-serian highway??

 

[anxious]

I think 110-115psi may be a bit low.

However See http://www.unitedbimmer.com/kb-e36-spark-plug-replacement-and-compression-test.php

Where the author said:-

"My results were 230-230-230-223-224-232, pretty good for 146k miles on this engine. The most valuable information you can derive from a compression test is really just how close the cylinders come to each other. An acceptable result would be that they fall to within at least 85% of the highest reading. For instance, my highest was 232psi, so the minimum for the others should be at least 197psi. But more ideally, the figures should be within 5-10psi of each other. If you have a cylinder that is drastically off compared to the others, retest it to make sure you didn’t get a bad reading. And while the minimum pressure for an E36 is 142-156psi, low numbers themselves do not necessarily mean engine trouble. A lot of factors affect gauge readings: the gauge itself, incorrectly adjusted valves, premature camshaft wear, altitude, temperature, and even the condition of your battery can retard the readings. Those who run aggressive cams will typically produce lower than average numbers as well. The important thing is that whatever the actual numbers are, they shouldn’t vary too greatly from each other."





So I think dont worry too much about the engine.It should be fine as long as there is no engine oil consumption and no rattles from the engine or the exhaust.

Remember you just changed the engine oil. Thats should be good for at least anorther 10000km.

 

[anxious]

Having said that I just checked the Bentley Manual which stated that :-

i) engine should be at normal operating temperature
ii) minimum compression should be b/w 10-11 Bar(142-156 psi)
iii) maximum difference b/w cylinders 0.5 Bar(7 psi)

 

[Lee36328]

Sadish,

Welcome to the pleasures of e36 ownership. The 328 is a sweet ride if brought up to prime condition.

A good indicator of overall health is the fuel consumption (assuming all other factors such as driving style, type of traffice, etc are equalized.) What is your consumption record so far? If you are getting about 500km+ per full tank, you are in good shape.

 

[han2u]

Man, there is no way I can get 500km per full tank moving around in Subang. RM100 will get me around 300km, I think.

 

[sadhish]

Hi all,

Just a small update this time. I'm posting my fuel consumption values for the last three fill-ups.

KM liters consumed l/100km
387.8 36.36l 9.4 (Highway driving. Shell green)
373.8 60.05 16.1 (100% town driving. Stupid driving style. 0-100 in 7sec 100-0 in 3 sec)
403.5 57.67 14.29 (100% town driving. Normal driving style.)

This time i poured in V-Power. Will let you guys know the result when it comes in.

The problem with Penang is that I rarely get to go above 70km/h during work days. Sometimes I feel like I forcing a tiger to be a pussy cat.. lol .. but once in a while when I let it loose... it's all ahhh .. Haha

 

[infinityKL]

Sadish,

Welcome to the pleasures of e36 ownership. The 328 is a sweet ride if brought up to prime condition.

A good indicator of overall health is the fuel consumption (assuming all other factors such as driving style, type of traffice, etc are equalized.) What is your consumption record so far? If you are getting about 500km+ per full tank, you are in good shape.

hi lee, ur breaking my heart, im only getting 400-440kms/per full tank in city use, only use VPower..

hi sadhish, imnot so familiar wt the compression test and all, but i realise u mentioned car "will start at 1 crank or most 2 cranks"...it should start at 1 crank!!