E34 upper arm pillow ball bushing.

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Bp88

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My upper arm bushing already spoilt "Car shimmy at 90 - 100km/h".Instead of going to OEM Bushing or 750i Bushing, I choose to try pillow ball bushing with custome alluminium insert. AFter the installation done, I drive out the car for test ride. It's really improve on total car handling and braking. LOVELY but there is a disadvantage. You'll feel it's abit hard, but according to the workshop, it will gradually feel OK after it's season. Please take a look at those pillow ball bushing.
 
Another pic before the installation. Pillow ball bushing press into upper are with alluminium insert.
 
bro bp88,

i osso experiencing the goyang2 inherent to e34 with worn thrust arm bush.but i am not sure if this really is the cause coz the bushings looks good with no tears AND the ball joint end dust boot is not torn but the ball joint stud moves very freely.i did this visual inspection with the whole arm removed from the car.

so how much did it cost you and what do you mean by " feeling a bit hard" as a disadvantage?do you mean the road sound/noise is transmitted to the cabin? :dunno:
 
Originally posted by moots@Jan 4 2006, 12:27 PM
bro bp88,

i osso experiencing the goyang2 inherent to e34 with worn thrust arm bush.but i am not sure if this really is the cause coz the bushings looks good with no tears AND the ball joint end dust boot is not torn but the ball joint stud moves very freely.i did this visual inspection with the whole arm removed from the car.

so how much did it cost you and what do you mean by " feeling a bit hard" as a disadvantage?do you mean the road sound/noise is transmitted to the cabin? :dunno:
E34 is very sensitive even aither one of the bushing wear off or wheel balancing out also will cause the shimmy prob.

AFter I checked, only one side of the bushing "koyak" but it cause the whole car shaking. AFter I change the bushing, the problem resolved.

It "feel abit hard" mean he sound transfer to cabin abit lound then normal but the handling is perfect.
 
There was an E39 there the last time I went fitted with the pillowball arms. Road feel is much better but then NVH would be compromised but not sure to what extent.
 
Originally posted by cyne@Jan 4 2006, 01:21 PM
Bro,

How much does this cost you ? I'm experiencing a slight vibration during 90-100km/h

I checked and saw that one of my ball joint is torn, should I change the whole arm or just the bush ?

Any advise is welcome...
well if you know very well the arm is not good or you have tons of money to spend or just itchy, you can change the whole thing ;) .....but changing the balljoint alone is fine.
 
Originally posted by cyne@Jan 4 2006, 01:21 PM
Bro,

How much does this cost you ? I'm experiencing a slight vibration during 90-100km/h

I checked and saw that one of my ball joint is torn, should I change the whole arm or just the bush ?

Any advise is welcome...
Just change the bush if the balljoin is still ok.

It cost me less then RM350 to for both side upper arm pillow ball bushing.
 
Good solution compared to change the new arm which will cost >RM700 @ brand new.....

Will try it up.....Thanks bp88 for sharing the infor :)
 
Cool mod, bp88.

Let us know how it handles w wear and tear as u use it. Cheers.
 
I referred to Bentley manual (page 310-9) about this topic, it says steering wheel vibration during braking (usually at speed of 50 to 60 mph) can often caused by faulty thrust arm bushings and not warped brake rotors.

You have to inspect the bushings for leaking fluid and replace them if any fluid leaks are present. It says our car (E34) use hydraulic bushings!!

But it seems that bp88 had mod & change his bushings to rubber instead of hydraulic bushings..., will this become less comfort driving?

Also please note that you have to align arrow on bushing with mark on thrust arm when installing bushing. And the car has to be on the ground with normal load when tightening the thrust arm bushing through bolt.
 
Original bushing is hydraulic bushing????

I inspected original bushing, it's just normal rubber bushing.

I change to pillow ball bushing with aluminium insert and there's no rubber at all. As I mentioned previously, the ride is much more solid but the sound transfer to cabin seem abit loud then normal. Maybe need to wait untill the pillow ball bushing run in for a while.
 
This is a note from the manual:

"Some very early 1988 cars may be equipped with the old style rubber bushings. These rubber bushings should have been removed and replaced with the hydraulic bushings during the new car pre-delivery inspection or during the first service visit. The hydraulic bushings can be identified by plastic clips on either side of the bushing. If the old-style rubber bushings are still installed, they should be replaced with the later style hydraulic bushings."

Or is it applicable for US models only?? :dunno: :dunno: :dunno:
 
Originally posted by wan520i@Jan 5 2006, 11:04 AM
The hydraulic bushings can be identified by plastic clips on either side of the bushing.
My original bushing have plastic clips on both side of the bushing.
 
Maybe we can call AB parts to get some info about this bushings..hydraulic or rubber inside? or "intel inside" haha.. :D :D

or someone sifu could provide some info about this??
 
Guys, were is this MPD? I need them to check mine as well. Recently found out that my rear ride goyang around 90 km/h...
 
Whaaaaattttt!Hydraulic thrust arm bushings?Now this is a first. :dunno:

Hydraulic engine mount got lar....but for thrust arm bush...I don't think so.

You can just replace the bushes without having the need to change the whole arm but you cannot change just the ball joint.If you know for sure the balljoint is OK,change just the bushing only.Cost around RM60++ the last I chk'd.To press in the bush cost RM10++ each.

Yes the orientation of the bush is of great importance as the braking forces will be taken up by the rubber piece.

And the bushes must be tightened with the car off the jacks or otherwise it will be twisted and remain in the twisted state therefore accelerating the bush wear.
 
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