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The BMW Range
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Something About Oil Eveyone Should Read
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<blockquote data-quote="astroboy" data-source="post: 405868" data-attributes="member: 4527"><p>Some salient points:</p><p><em><strong>"..90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup. If we are interested in engine longevity then we should concentrate our attention at reducing engine wear at startup."</strong></em></p><p></p><p><em><strong>"Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the right thickness at the normal operating temperature of the engine. I will say this average oil temperature is 212 F, the boiling point of water. On the track that temperature is up to 302F. It is important to realize that these are two different operating environments and require different oils."</strong></em></p><p><em><strong></strong></em></p><p></p><p>What about the 90% wear during start up? He says all oils are too thick for start up, even at 40 Celsius, but the thinner start up oil will cause lesser engine wear compare to the thicker oil. So 0w-30 is a better oil at start up compare to 5w-30. And "W" doesn't stand for Winter.. its just a designation of test method versus another.</p><p></p><p><strong><em>"The tendency is that people figure they need a 40 weight oils but then use a 50 instead. Better thinking is that if you think you need a 40, use a 30 weight oil instead. I firmly believe this based on all I know about oils."</em></strong></p><p></p><p>Haha... I picked the right oil! 0w-30 :rock:</p><p></p><p><strong><em>"..synthetic oils do cling to parts better as they have higher film strength than mineral oils. Synthetics are thinner overall. They have greater slipperiness."</em></strong></p><p></p><p>Full synthetic is a better choice!</p><p></p><p><strong><em>"People are always asking about adding things as Slick 50 into the oil tank. Do not do this."</em></strong></p><p></p><p>Hmmnn..</p><p></p><p><strong><em>"Independent additives cannot make the oil better and in many cases makes things worse. There have been engine failures as a result of adding some of these aftermarket additives to motor oil."</em></strong></p><p></p><p>U've been warned! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite9" alt=":eek:" title="Eek! :eek:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":eek:" /></p><p><strong><em></em></strong></p><p><strong><em>"Motor oil that is labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. These are very important for your engine unless you plan on taking it apart every few weeks and cleaning every single surface. The oils do not meet the API / SAE requirements for ratings as SJ, SL or now SM.</em>"</strong></p><p></p><p>Be careful on Racing Oil! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite9" alt=":eek:" title="Eek! :eek:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":eek:" /></p><p></p><p><strong><em>"You do not need to use the exact oil type and brand that your car manual tells you to use. Oils are pretty general."</em></strong></p><p></p><p>Hehe.. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /> <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p><em><strong>"Just because your engine is old does not mean it needs a thicker oil. It will need a thicker oil only if it is overly worn, whether new or old."</strong></em></p><p></p><p>This should answer the question asked by many.. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p><em><strong>"Do not go 5,000 miles (8k km) with the same oil if you are racing your car. You should change the oil every 1 or 2,000 miles (3.2km km). If you drive your car around town then you need to change the oil for that situation. <u>Use racing oil on the track and urban oil around town</u>."</strong></em></p><p></p><p>Hehe.. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p><em><strong></strong></em></p><p><em><strong>"It seems that many engines work best with a multigrade 30 weight oil. Others would do better with a 20 weight oil and few would require a 40 weight oil."</strong></em></p><p></p><p>Info..</p><p></p><p>.. and what oil to use when top up!! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite9" alt=":eek:" title="Eek! :eek:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":eek:" /><strong><em></em></strong></p><p><strong><em>"If while on the road you are forced to add oil there are rules. Let us say for example that our engine has synthetic Mobil One 0W-30. Use the same type and brand if you can. If you are using Mobil 1 then it is acceptable to mix different grades but use a close grade when possible. It is not a good idea to mix say 1/2 your oil tank with 0W-30 and 1/2 with 15W-50 Mobil 1. If there is no Mobil 1 available then use the mineral based Mobil oils next,.</em></strong></p><p><strong><em></em></strong></p><p><strong><em>The last choice is to mix a synthetic of another brand. They should not react adversely if mixed but it may dilute additives. This is not a good combination. Use this combination if you must but only until an oil change can safely be performed some time soon.</em></strong>"</p><p></p><p>U have to read the entire thing to understand single grade oil versus multi grade oil, and mineral oil versus synthetic oil.</p><p></p><p>I learned! Thanks Spaceman!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="astroboy, post: 405868, member: 4527"] Some salient points: [I][B]"..90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup. If we are interested in engine longevity then we should concentrate our attention at reducing engine wear at startup."[/B][/I] [I][B]"Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the right thickness at the normal operating temperature of the engine. I will say this average oil temperature is 212 F, the boiling point of water. On the track that temperature is up to 302F. It is important to realize that these are two different operating environments and require different oils." [/B][/I] What about the 90% wear during start up? He says all oils are too thick for start up, even at 40 Celsius, but the thinner start up oil will cause lesser engine wear compare to the thicker oil. So 0w-30 is a better oil at start up compare to 5w-30. And "W" doesn't stand for Winter.. its just a designation of test method versus another. [B][I]"The tendency is that people figure they need a 40 weight oils but then use a 50 instead. Better thinking is that if you think you need a 40, use a 30 weight oil instead. I firmly believe this based on all I know about oils."[/I][/B] Haha... I picked the right oil! 0w-30 :rock: [B][I]"..synthetic oils do cling to parts better as they have higher film strength than mineral oils. Synthetics are thinner overall. They have greater slipperiness."[/I][/B] Full synthetic is a better choice! [B][I]"People are always asking about adding things as Slick 50 into the oil tank. Do not do this."[/I][/B] Hmmnn.. [B][I]"Independent additives cannot make the oil better and in many cases makes things worse. There have been engine failures as a result of adding some of these aftermarket additives to motor oil."[/I][/B] U've been warned! :eek: [B][I] "Motor oil that is labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. These are very important for your engine unless you plan on taking it apart every few weeks and cleaning every single surface. The oils do not meet the API / SAE requirements for ratings as SJ, SL or now SM.[/I]"[/B] Be careful on Racing Oil! :eek: [B][I]"You do not need to use the exact oil type and brand that your car manual tells you to use. Oils are pretty general."[/I][/B] Hehe.. :D :D [I][B]"Just because your engine is old does not mean it needs a thicker oil. It will need a thicker oil only if it is overly worn, whether new or old."[/B][/I] This should answer the question asked by many.. :D [I][B]"Do not go 5,000 miles (8k km) with the same oil if you are racing your car. You should change the oil every 1 or 2,000 miles (3.2km km). If you drive your car around town then you need to change the oil for that situation. [U]Use racing oil on the track and urban oil around town[/U]."[/B][/I] Hehe.. :D [I][B] "It seems that many engines work best with a multigrade 30 weight oil. Others would do better with a 20 weight oil and few would require a 40 weight oil."[/B][/I] Info.. .. and what oil to use when top up!! :eek:[B][I] "If while on the road you are forced to add oil there are rules. Let us say for example that our engine has synthetic Mobil One 0W-30. Use the same type and brand if you can. If you are using Mobil 1 then it is acceptable to mix different grades but use a close grade when possible. It is not a good idea to mix say 1/2 your oil tank with 0W-30 and 1/2 with 15W-50 Mobil 1. If there is no Mobil 1 available then use the mineral based Mobil oils next,. The last choice is to mix a synthetic of another brand. They should not react adversely if mixed but it may dilute additives. This is not a good combination. Use this combination if you must but only until an oil change can safely be performed some time soon.[/I][/B]" U have to read the entire thing to understand single grade oil versus multi grade oil, and mineral oil versus synthetic oil. I learned! Thanks Spaceman! [/QUOTE]
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