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The BMW Range
///M Cars
Pointers pls on a contemplated 2002 e46 m3 purchase
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<blockquote data-quote="e34_lover" data-source="post: 645641" data-attributes="member: 16259"><p>Do you know where your car is from?</p><p></p><p>Pretty much the only thing you can do is bring it in to BMW so they can check your VIN on their system and see if the recall has been done.</p><p></p><p>I have heard that even after the recall, it still spins the bearings.</p><p></p><p>A few companies like VAC and Bimmerworld offer coated/treated bearing shells. I think the other thing was to replace the rod bolts with ARP hardware. </p><p></p><p>I am not sure if dealers are willing to do any goodwill over here in Malaysia if the recall hasn't been done so IF the repair hasn't been carried out, make sure the car has TWS in it. BMW only recommends TWS for the E46 M3 and if they find out it doesn't, they won't help you out at all.</p><p></p><p>Heres a list of what to look out for:</p><p></p><p>1) Look for cracks around the rear subframe area. This is a weak spot on the E46.</p><p></p><p>2) Check for rust lip of the fenders. A common problem on the E46 as well. </p><p></p><p>3) Check for rust on the door striker. Another rusty area on the E46.</p><p></p><p>4) Exhaust mounts will be pretty worn if they have not been changed before, M3 exhaust weights a tonne....</p><p></p><p>5) Check to see if it has had its valve adjustment done. Can get quite pricey.</p><p></p><p>6) Check for Vanos rattles</p><p></p><p>7) Check rear shock towers for cracks. If you buy the car and it doesn't have the reinforcements already, get them.</p><p></p><p>8) For cars with about 80k kms or so, check the front control arm bushings, rear trailing arm bushings. Common wear items these 2.</p><p></p><p>9) Check for any coolant leakage.</p><p></p><p>10) Run a diagnostic check and see if you get any codes.</p><p></p><p>11) Inspect rear diff bushings for cracks. Can be expensive to change them as the bushings only come with the rear diff cover. I do know of another way though :top:</p><p></p><p>12) Camshaft sprocket bolts can shear off. Requires removal of valve cover and maybe vanos to check this.</p><p></p><p>Those are the things I can think of off the top of my head. I will add things later if I remember any others lol.</p><p></p><p>Pretty much all these can be used to negotiate price. However, I would recommend to walk away if you find shock tower cracks, subframe cracks. Can get expensive to fix. Is the car an SMG?</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="e34_lover, post: 645641, member: 16259"] Do you know where your car is from? Pretty much the only thing you can do is bring it in to BMW so they can check your VIN on their system and see if the recall has been done. I have heard that even after the recall, it still spins the bearings. A few companies like VAC and Bimmerworld offer coated/treated bearing shells. I think the other thing was to replace the rod bolts with ARP hardware. I am not sure if dealers are willing to do any goodwill over here in Malaysia if the recall hasn't been done so IF the repair hasn't been carried out, make sure the car has TWS in it. BMW only recommends TWS for the E46 M3 and if they find out it doesn't, they won't help you out at all. Heres a list of what to look out for: 1) Look for cracks around the rear subframe area. This is a weak spot on the E46. 2) Check for rust lip of the fenders. A common problem on the E46 as well. 3) Check for rust on the door striker. Another rusty area on the E46. 4) Exhaust mounts will be pretty worn if they have not been changed before, M3 exhaust weights a tonne.... 5) Check to see if it has had its valve adjustment done. Can get quite pricey. 6) Check for Vanos rattles 7) Check rear shock towers for cracks. If you buy the car and it doesn't have the reinforcements already, get them. 8) For cars with about 80k kms or so, check the front control arm bushings, rear trailing arm bushings. Common wear items these 2. 9) Check for any coolant leakage. 10) Run a diagnostic check and see if you get any codes. 11) Inspect rear diff bushings for cracks. Can be expensive to change them as the bushings only come with the rear diff cover. I do know of another way though :top: 12) Camshaft sprocket bolts can shear off. Requires removal of valve cover and maybe vanos to check this. Those are the things I can think of off the top of my head. I will add things later if I remember any others lol. Pretty much all these can be used to negotiate price. However, I would recommend to walk away if you find shock tower cracks, subframe cracks. Can get expensive to fix. Is the car an SMG? Hope this helps! [/QUOTE]
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