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<blockquote data-quote="KL2DC" data-source="post: 159696" data-attributes="member: 3452"><p>question 1: To which bunch of cables did you audio shop splice/tap the remote lead into...? </p><p> </p><p>There's a buch of wires one shouldn't tap into...the safest way (I think) is to tap into the lead/connector wire into the cigarette lighter as this power point is fused, ready, stand alone and regulated.</p><p> </p><p>I'm no eletrical/ICE expert but from the top of my head, I am thinking the airbag-light-on problem is due to drop in voltage because of improper wire tap (best scenario). You're lucky, I read one person had some 12" subs and amps installed and ended up with his whole engine ECU/circuit and battery control unit fried due to unstable power/voltage spikes/draws and inexperienced installation. It ended up to be a USD3k mistake....</p><p> </p><p>Good Luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="KL2DC, post: 159696, member: 3452"] question 1: To which bunch of cables did you audio shop splice/tap the remote lead into...? There's a buch of wires one shouldn't tap into...the safest way (I think) is to tap into the lead/connector wire into the cigarette lighter as this power point is fused, ready, stand alone and regulated. I'm no eletrical/ICE expert but from the top of my head, I am thinking the airbag-light-on problem is due to drop in voltage because of improper wire tap (best scenario). You're lucky, I read one person had some 12" subs and amps installed and ended up with his whole engine ECU/circuit and battery control unit fried due to unstable power/voltage spikes/draws and inexperienced installation. It ended up to be a USD3k mistake.... Good Luck! [/QUOTE]
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