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Engine Oil for E60??
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<blockquote data-quote="berw" data-source="post: 355637" data-attributes="member: 17080"><p>OK My experience, My race car (lotus) lasted 2 laps of Sepang with Syntium, I asked Petronas for some technical info such as olifin contents and molecular chain lengths and they said ‘trade secret’, I said 'But Castrol publish it', so I said OK I am free to draw my own conclusions from the fact you will not disclose info on your oil, and I will not use Petronas Oil again, (I think it breaks down at high relatively low sump oil temperature, but this is only my opinion from one experience, but the engine rebuild cost 50,000 Rm so I will not try again with Petronas Oil)</p><p>Oil does one thing it lubricates, (but you may also need to consider life, and cleaning properties), </p><p>Lubrication relies on the ability to withstand shear pressure, and temperature (when it is in place) and of course viscosity( to get to the right place), any good SL SM oil will do in a road car, I'm told Mobil one breaks down at 130 degree C, and Castrol RS and 140C, I can get a bulk oil temperature of 125C in my race car, on the road oil temperature is irrelevant, you should not be an where near a high enough temp to break the oil, but the race car uses Castrol RS for this reason.</p><p>Cleaning properties, you get what you pay for, look at the additives,</p><p>Synthetic oil does not lubricate significantly better, it last longer, make the choice, initial cost to number of oil changes, bur remember there are two definitions of Synthetic Oil, Marketing Synthetic and Chemically Synthetic, (this arose from a court case were BP claimed an oil to be synthetic, but it did not have a fully 'synthetic' molecular structure) the info I get is that any oil that is not 3 times or more the price of a mineral is a ‘marketing’ oil and the word synthetic does not have the meaning a chemist would wish to apply.</p><p>Also my research is that no oil company will willingly guarantee oil for more than 15,000KM, the claims to a higher life are made by car manufactures to get a one year service interval in Europe (typically 20,000KM), and remember in Europe Oil is the same price as here, but an oil change can cost 600 Rm in labour only, so it is worth paying for a long life oil and changing less often, not the case here were labour is cheaper.</p><p>Also remember that in Malaysia you do not need to pay for oils that perform well at very low ambient temperatures i.e. 0 and 5 oils.</p><p>And you do not want synthetic oil in a new engine, you want a bit of wear, so the rings will ‘bed in’, so use a mineral oil for the fist 500KM (again car manufactures do not do this because it cost money to change oil and it inconveniences customers who have bought a new car and must bring it back to the garage after a week).</p><p>And don’t listen to car manufactures that say only one brand will do, no refinery in the world makes oil just for Peradua, look at the viscosity you need and the API rating, (SL or SM are the latest I think)</p><p>So my recommendation Castrol RS and change every 10</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="berw, post: 355637, member: 17080"] OK My experience, My race car (lotus) lasted 2 laps of Sepang with Syntium, I asked Petronas for some technical info such as olifin contents and molecular chain lengths and they said ‘trade secret’, I said 'But Castrol publish it', so I said OK I am free to draw my own conclusions from the fact you will not disclose info on your oil, and I will not use Petronas Oil again, (I think it breaks down at high relatively low sump oil temperature, but this is only my opinion from one experience, but the engine rebuild cost 50,000 Rm so I will not try again with Petronas Oil) Oil does one thing it lubricates, (but you may also need to consider life, and cleaning properties), Lubrication relies on the ability to withstand shear pressure, and temperature (when it is in place) and of course viscosity( to get to the right place), any good SL SM oil will do in a road car, I'm told Mobil one breaks down at 130 degree C, and Castrol RS and 140C, I can get a bulk oil temperature of 125C in my race car, on the road oil temperature is irrelevant, you should not be an where near a high enough temp to break the oil, but the race car uses Castrol RS for this reason. Cleaning properties, you get what you pay for, look at the additives, Synthetic oil does not lubricate significantly better, it last longer, make the choice, initial cost to number of oil changes, bur remember there are two definitions of Synthetic Oil, Marketing Synthetic and Chemically Synthetic, (this arose from a court case were BP claimed an oil to be synthetic, but it did not have a fully 'synthetic' molecular structure) the info I get is that any oil that is not 3 times or more the price of a mineral is a ‘marketing’ oil and the word synthetic does not have the meaning a chemist would wish to apply. Also my research is that no oil company will willingly guarantee oil for more than 15,000KM, the claims to a higher life are made by car manufactures to get a one year service interval in Europe (typically 20,000KM), and remember in Europe Oil is the same price as here, but an oil change can cost 600 Rm in labour only, so it is worth paying for a long life oil and changing less often, not the case here were labour is cheaper. Also remember that in Malaysia you do not need to pay for oils that perform well at very low ambient temperatures i.e. 0 and 5 oils. And you do not want synthetic oil in a new engine, you want a bit of wear, so the rings will ‘bed in’, so use a mineral oil for the fist 500KM (again car manufactures do not do this because it cost money to change oil and it inconveniences customers who have bought a new car and must bring it back to the garage after a week). And don’t listen to car manufactures that say only one brand will do, no refinery in the world makes oil just for Peradua, look at the viscosity you need and the API rating, (SL or SM are the latest I think) So my recommendation Castrol RS and change every 10 [/QUOTE]
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