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Engine oil for 3 series(hello from SG)
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<blockquote data-quote="astroboy" data-source="post: 710207" data-attributes="member: 4527"><p>There are many variables and points of consideration..</p><p></p><p>1. Engine oil viscosity is in a direct relationship with car performance, the thinner the oil, the livelier the rev and pickup. However, it's in an inverse relationship when it comes to engine protection. The thicker the oil, the better the wear protection. But then..</p><p></p><p>2. Oils of different viscosity has varying optimal operating temperature where engine protection is maximised.. the thicker the oil, the higher the optimal operating temperature. So the amount of time required to bring the engine temperature to optimal oil protection temperature is crucial. For short distance driving, thick oil is not suitable because the oil never reaches operating temperature to allow optimal engine wear protection. Track car and M engines requires weighted 60 oils due to the "expected" constant high engine operating temperature. If you drive your M car slow and short distance, you better think twice rather than follow the recommended weighted 60 oil, and also..</p><p></p><p>3. A car with similar engine in different climate operates at the same temperature because thermostat kicks in at identical temperature. So it's not true that tropical country engine runs hotter. When you light up a match, it burns at identical temperature whether on the Alpines or in Sahara. </p><p></p><p>4. Castrol says "<a href="http://magnatec.castrol.com/en/the-problem.html" target="_blank">Up to 75% of engine wear happens during warm-up</a>" so the thinner the oil, the faster the oil reaches optimal temperature and the faster it reaches the top of the engine to lubricate engine components. So for a while it seems the thinner the oil the better but remember once engine heated up, it might be beyond the optimal operating temperature of the thin viscosity oil and fail to protect the engine.</p><p></p><p>For our N46 engine, SC specified 5w-30, obviously for reasons of fuel efficiency and livelier engine, to comply with EU standard of improved horse power and fuel efficiency with every new engine generation, while providing "reasonable" engine wear protection. It's obvious that engine protection from the oil is not high on their list rather than adhering to EU's engine design guide.</p><p></p><p>You may alter the priority a bit by providing better engine protection by using rated 40 oils, but at a cost of fuel efficiency and pickup. I don't recommend 50. You are more likely to kill the engine than otherwise because the thick oil unable to reach critical engine bearings fast enough during start-ups, and our NA standard engine may not be able to reach the optimal oil protection temperature..</p><p></p><p>Did that help or did I just confused you further? :71:</p><p></p><p>My advice: Don't bother, average Singaporean cars sent for scrap at 50k km.. so if your usage is similar, you don't need to waste money on oil change.. you can't get better scrap price with a pristine condition engine.. :66:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="astroboy, post: 710207, member: 4527"] There are many variables and points of consideration.. 1. Engine oil viscosity is in a direct relationship with car performance, the thinner the oil, the livelier the rev and pickup. However, it's in an inverse relationship when it comes to engine protection. The thicker the oil, the better the wear protection. But then.. 2. Oils of different viscosity has varying optimal operating temperature where engine protection is maximised.. the thicker the oil, the higher the optimal operating temperature. So the amount of time required to bring the engine temperature to optimal oil protection temperature is crucial. For short distance driving, thick oil is not suitable because the oil never reaches operating temperature to allow optimal engine wear protection. Track car and M engines requires weighted 60 oils due to the "expected" constant high engine operating temperature. If you drive your M car slow and short distance, you better think twice rather than follow the recommended weighted 60 oil, and also.. 3. A car with similar engine in different climate operates at the same temperature because thermostat kicks in at identical temperature. So it's not true that tropical country engine runs hotter. When you light up a match, it burns at identical temperature whether on the Alpines or in Sahara. 4. Castrol says "[URL="http://magnatec.castrol.com/en/the-problem.html"]Up to 75% of engine wear happens during warm-up[/URL]" so the thinner the oil, the faster the oil reaches optimal temperature and the faster it reaches the top of the engine to lubricate engine components. So for a while it seems the thinner the oil the better but remember once engine heated up, it might be beyond the optimal operating temperature of the thin viscosity oil and fail to protect the engine. For our N46 engine, SC specified 5w-30, obviously for reasons of fuel efficiency and livelier engine, to comply with EU standard of improved horse power and fuel efficiency with every new engine generation, while providing "reasonable" engine wear protection. It's obvious that engine protection from the oil is not high on their list rather than adhering to EU's engine design guide. You may alter the priority a bit by providing better engine protection by using rated 40 oils, but at a cost of fuel efficiency and pickup. I don't recommend 50. You are more likely to kill the engine than otherwise because the thick oil unable to reach critical engine bearings fast enough during start-ups, and our NA standard engine may not be able to reach the optimal oil protection temperature.. Did that help or did I just confused you further? :71: My advice: Don't bother, average Singaporean cars sent for scrap at 50k km.. so if your usage is similar, you don't need to waste money on oil change.. you can't get better scrap price with a pristine condition engine.. :66: [/QUOTE]
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