Central Locking Kaput..

Anybody experience some problem with E46 central locking:-
Just experience a strange problem with my central locking on Saturday.
1. Cannot open the all the doors by the internal "Open Door" push button.
2. Cannot open the driver door by the remote control. However, the windows opens when continuously press the "->" (or unlock button on the remote control).
3. Can lock all doors when the remote "lock" button or "internal push button" is pressed. Can also open the rear boot when the remote "boot" PB is pressed.
4. When press the "internal open door", there was a slight click but the door did not open.
5. When press the lock key on remote, the door cannot be open from inside lever. Got me worried for a while as could not get out of the car. Luckily can open the window and use key to manually unlock the door.:wink:
6. Try to disconnect the battery supply to recycle the EWS, ECU and whatnot. Did not work.:stupid:
Yesterday on Sunday, the alarm went off for no reason.. Press the "->" and alarm is silenced.
Try to open and close door and found that every thing just work perfectly.. :love:

Note: Found that the driver side only have key lock whereas the passenger side door does not have any lock (similar to the rear door handle)

 

Oh no, it just happen again.. Cannot open the door via remote.

I have open my front bonnet to check something. After I close the bonnet, I can still locked my front door.

When I got off from work, Icannot open my front door via remote and have to use my key to open the door.

Drive back to PD and have my dinner. Park the car and can lock the door via remote. After dinner, the door can once again be opened via the remote..

Can the problem be due to the switch in the front bonnet. BTW, where is this switch located?

Please help...

 

maybe but really have no idea. if that is the problem, how to resyn it..

Problem is when I stop my car, I can usually open all doors by pressing the "Door" button located near the gearshift.. but when the bug "come", I cannot open or close the door when I press this button. I have to manually pull the door handle twice to open the door. (One to unlock and the second time to open)

Anyway, if the remote is out of syn with the remote, it should also have problem to lock the door. I do not have any problem locking and arm the alarm via the remote control. I can also open the window when I hold the "->" key on the remote..

 

BTW, I did removed the cover under the steering column to take out the sprint booster that was installed by the previous owner. Is the EWS located around this corner. I might have accidentally loosen some connectors.

affan, you want to buy a sprint booster. Selling cheap cheap..

 

affan, Thanks for the info..

Will try ah wai if cannot solve the problem myself.

Was hoping someone might have encounter the same problem as me..

 

This morning try the remote and it works just fine... whew.. finger crossed and hope the gremlins would go for a holiday and not come back.

 

Just found out that the E46 have 2 modules. I think my problem is related to DWA rather than EWS.


Copy and paste from bimmerfest (QS7 author)

1. Your master key w/remote keyless entry buttons has TWO features:
DWA - keyless entry/anti-theft which locks/unlocks the car by pressing buttons integrated into key...and it activates/deactivates the alarm siren. BUT...there is NO LIMIT to how many times (up to) FOUR keys can be programmed into the DWA system. (this feature requires the use of the battery inside the key)
EWS - drive-away-protection (immobilizes the car by shutting down spark/fuel/ignition until the ISN (individual serial number) of the ECU, EWS control module, Ring Antenna around the ignition switch, and key all communicate with each other). (this feature is self-powering & works by sending a low frequency 125 KHz AM signal to the EWS Control Module which then converts it to a digital signal)

2. You car's DWA system can be programmed (by anyone) to accept the RF (radio signal) from FOUR master keys w/remote buttons to lock/unlock the car (this is the 1st key you program using the instructions below...PLUS 3 additional keys which is mentioned in the instructions below)

For example, since you have the new style key that recharges when it is in the ignition switch...if/when the battery dies in your key...you could possibly buy a used old style key off ebay and program it to lock/unlock your car doors then stick the original key (with the dead battery inside it) in the ignition to start the car. You could keep doing this over and over again buying a used key and program it to lock/unlock your car. These "used" keys will never start your car...but you can follow the simple instructions below to program it to lock/unlock the doors & trunk.
3. The EWS control module will only except the ISN (individual serial number) from the transponder embedded inside of 10 keys (this is ANY combination of BMW keys including the NON-REMOTE keys as well)...after that, you must purchase a new EWS Control Module and start all over with a new set of (up to 10) keys. The programming of the key and EWS control module can ONLY be done by BMW using its DIS proprietary software (and some people have some bootleg software that can also do it).

 

At last, found somebody who have the same problem as my car.

Go to this link for more info.. (Technical and DIY stuff)

http://www.bmwgm5.com/

 

Woh so much.. Look like I will try to DIY first. If cannot then only replace the module or buy the replacement relay or bypass the circuit.

 

Okow, I doubt it have any thing to do with the key if you cannot even open the door when you press the "LOCK" push button inside your car.

 

OIC, yes you do have a problem with the key if you can open the door with the unlock button at the gear console.

This applied for key that is diamond shape.



Maybe you can try this procedure to resyn your key. Thanks affan66 for the link.

Initialization Procedure.

1. Open central locking system using the car key.
2. Get into the car and close all doors.
3. Using the car key, switch the ignition lock briefly to position "1" and then switch off again. (Please do this switching within 5 seconds or otherwise the system is not ready for initialization.
4. At the remote control key. Press the "OPEN" key (->) and keep holding.
5. When holding the "OPEN" key, press the "LOCK" button three time.
6. After pressing the "LOCK" button 3 times, release the "OPEN" button.
7. If the initialization process is sucessful, the door will lock and unlock immediately to confirm the process.

Please try whether it works.

 

Did some research and found out that the problem with central locking is mainly due to the following:-
1. Actuator for the door lock/unlock.
2. Dead Bolt Actuator
3. Loose connection
4. GM5 or GMV or ZKE5 (depending on which country you are from)

Symthom of GM5 module problem :-
1. Mostly can lock but intermittently cannot unlock.
2. Need to use key to manually open the door on driver side.
3. Passenger door and rear door cannot be open by the inside door handle.
4. Internal "LOCK" push button on gearshift console also cannot open all doors.
5. Sound of "click" of the door trying to open but cannot open when the internal "LOCK" push button is activate.

If you have ALL of the aboves, then your problem is 99% GM5 module.
The BMW locking system basically consist of 2 actuators.
One actuator is for the lock/unlock function and the other actuator is for the deadbolt locking.
The deadbolt is activated inconjuction with alarm system and will prevent the door from opening even you use the internal door lever.
This is the security measure of the alarm system and it will prevent somebody from entering your vehicle even if they break your window pane. The 2 actuators is similarly applied for all 4 doors and 2 door for coupe model.
The GMS have 4 relays to switch all the 8 numbers of actuators plus another actuator for the petrol filling cover. However, due to the configuration of the 4 relays, one relay is always configured to switch all the 9 devices at the same time causing the contact to wear off prematurely. (In my opinion, this is an inherent flaw in the design).
When the contact is worn out, resistance will increase between the contact surfaces and hence will reduce the current flow to properly switch the deadbolt actuators and lock/unlock actuator. If the deadbolt actuator fail to be released, it is impossible to open the door. You can confirm the deabolt is NOT release when you cannot open the passenger door by the internal door handle. However, the driver deadbolt actuator can be released manually by using the key.

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator to release the deadbolt.

The above is based on theory. I will try to DIY when I have the time.

Note, incase you happen to lock yourself in the car and cannot open the door from inside. Dont panic. Just wind down the window pane and open the door with your key. :stupid:

 

Whew, today everything is OK...

I am planning to retrofit another interposing relay with the power switching of all the 9 circuits. Most probably will buy a normal AUTO relay with contact rating of 20 A or more.

As the circuit is still working, i.e. contact still usable for low amp switching, it would be bette to transfer the load.

Have to check out the actual wiring schematic and do a few testing before will decide what is the best option.

Stay in touch for update.