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Central Locking Kaput..


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#181 zidee

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 02:11 PM

Bro Jarance,

What is the sign of door sensor close kaput. If it s not working do you think interior light is not responding to on/off and alarm will be triggered if i lock using remote? In my case the interior light is working as per normal and no alarm triggered.Display on instrument cluster also did not indicate right door open. Maybe it works differnetly. I understand to remove and fix the actuator is rather PITA. I hope I don't have to do that.

Appreciate your advise.

zidee,

since you have open the door and work on it, check for loose connection or something blocking the actuator.

high possibility is the actuator that is the culprit.

based on error 83 [131], it look like that the door close sensor is not functioning. check that out first.

will try to extract some info on the wiring from the WDS later.



#182 jarance

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 07:46 AM

Bro Jarance,

What is the sign of door sensor close kaput. If it s not working do you think interior light is not responding to on/off and alarm will be triggered if i lock using remote? In my case the interior light is working as per normal and no alarm triggered.Display on instrument cluster also did not indicate right door open. Maybe it works differnetly. I understand to remove and fix the actuator is rather PITA. I hope I don't have to do that.

Appreciate your advise.


can you get hold of the dcan cable and inpa? the inpa program can easily identify the status of the door.

#183 zidee

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 09:22 AM

can you get hold of the dcan cable and inpa? the inpa program can easily identify the status of the door.


Yes i do have DCAN cable and INPA. Which option should I use to check? I'm rather new to INPA. Use PA Soft most of the time.

I already rulled out fuse 53 at the trunk as if i remove that fuse, all the lock will not respond via remote. My problem is only not locking the front driver side.

As per Jarance suspect, I'm now quite certain it is a door lock actuator. Below pic is the spare unit I have.

Posted Image

Below is location of the actuator on top of the door lock mechanism.

Posted Image

I tried to remove the lock mechanism but not able to do so as i'm sure what else is holding it after i remove all the outer screw.

Any idea whats holding it? Was it the outer door handle hook?

#184 jarance

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 09:54 AM

Try this link for the actuator removal.

http://forums.bimmer...88#post25169388

#185 zidee

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 10:01 AM

Try this link for the actuator removal.

http://forums.bimmer...88#post25169388


I did take a look at this post and also the PDF doc last night. However I could not find or clear on how he remove the lock mechanism. That part was not mention.

#186 jarance

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 10:19 AM

Using INPA, you can go to body and check the ZKE or GM5 module. There is a selection for input status check.

#187 zidee

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 10:24 AM

Using INPA, you can go to body and check the ZKE or GM5 module.
There is a selection for input status check.


Tq bro. I will look into it.

#188 jarance

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 10:25 AM

Here is link with pictures.

http://www.bimmerboa...ms/posts/421123

#189 zidee

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 01:38 PM

Here is link with pictures.

http://www.bimmerboa...ms/posts/421123


Thanks. That is for the rear E38 so the "access" is rather different. The is video on E46 as well. I had the feel I did not unhook the Bowden cable for outside door handle. I will give it a try again.

#190 Alex5522

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 03:28 PM

I think I know how to solve the problem. Based on the info from bmwgm5.com, the problem is due one relay taking all the load which cause the contact to wear prematurely. Solution is to distribute the load with another relay located outside the module. In order to prove my theory, I need a volunteer who have GM5 module problem for me to experiment. The job involve cutting 8 nos of wires and wired to the new relay. Cost of relay shall 5 amp rating but shall have 4poles to share the load of the 8 motors (actuator). Previously one contact (20 Amp rated) take the load of 8 actuator. The surge current cause the contact to wear off. if the load are distributed over 4 contacts, the wear is less. Furthermore, if one contact wear off, only one door is affected rather than 4 doors at the same time. IM, so planning to spend RM800 or RM100 for OM or RM200 for non OM (my cost).

 

Bro Jarance,

 

This the method(as red words on your posting) my friend help me to save a lot money to change the new GM5 module. The only diff mine was not the door problem and it was my rear right window can't roll down but can roll up.  He use 2 pcs of relay and 1 pc of 15 amp fuse for safety purpose. Two wires need to cut and another two wires he just pry off the rubber and tapping the wires of the new relay.



#191 jarance

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 09:39 AM



Bro Jarance,

 

This the method(as red words on your posting) my friend help me to save a lot money to change the new GM5 module. The only diff mine was not the door problem and it was my rear right window can't roll down but can roll up.  He use 2 pcs of relay and 1 pc of 15 amp fuse for safety purpose. Two wires need to cut and another two wires he just pry off the rubber and tapping the wires of the new relay.

 

you mean something like this?

 

P1030156_zpsa668f622.jpg


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#192 Alex5522

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 08:49 AM

Bro Jarance,

 

The connection and the soldering part was a bit dif as your pic above.

 

Sorry for can't really give you the actual conection of the wiring being done from my friend to my GM5 module cause i am away during the connection when he is doing. But i am really happy that he can help me to do the surgery and modificaion on the relays. It's really works and save me quite some money to replaced a used or new GM5 module.

 

Below some pics i manage to snap while i am around his shop;

This is my GM5 Module and he did make a hole on the casing to fish out two wires after he soldering from the module card

0UJNHiX.png

He modify and using 2 nos of this type of 5 leg relays and the socket and rewired it outside to replace my damage ori relay on the GM5 module.(Pic borrow from website)

2LOOrml.png

He did using a piece of this type of 15 Amps fuse for safety purpose on the connection (Pic borrow from website)

bqOIyDg.jpg

This the Front view of the module card and he told me one of the relays in red circle was damage

Sfd9Sec.png

This the back view of the module card and he did soldering two wires on the leg of the damege relay and fish out this two wires through the hole of the casing of the module  as the top pic shown

HgKcpUA.jpg

He did cut off two nos of wires from the red circle (total disconnected) and peel off the rubber of another two wires here too to tapping the two soldering wires which he was done earlier. Sorry that i am not really sure which two wires being cut and which two wires being tapping. (Pic borrow from Jarance posting)

g7jbBXO.jpg

 



#193 jarance

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 02:21 AM

what your friend did was tapped the open/close control signal from the existing relays to energise the two external relays.

then he power the existing motor from the new relay. QED.

 

As for me, I use 2 miniature relays and all the wiring modification is done inside the module.

 

Both methods works.


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