Central Locking Kaput..

[jarance]

Anybody experience some problem with E46 central locking:-

Just experience a strange problem with my central locking on Saturday.

1. Cannot open the all the doors by the internal "Open Door" push button.

2. Cannot open the driver door by the remote control. However, the windows opens when continuously press the "->" (or unlock button on the remote control).

3. Can lock all doors when the remote "lock" button or "internal push button" is pressed.
Can also open the rear boot when the remote "boot" PB is pressed.

4. When press the "internal open door", there was a slight click but the door did not open.

5. When press the lock key on remote, the door cannot be open from inside lever. Got me worried :eek: for a while as could not get out of the car. Luckily can open the window and use key to manually unlock the door.:wink:

6. Try to disconnect the battery supply to recycle the EWS, ECU and whatnot. Did not work.:stupid:

Yesterday on Sunday, the alarm went off for no reason.. Press the "->" and alarm is silenced. Try to open and close door and found that every thing just work perfectly.. :love:

Note: Found that the driver side only have key lock whereas the passenger side door does not have any lock (similar to the rear door handle)

[jarance]

Oh no, it just happen again.. Cannot open the door via remote.

I have open my front bonnet to check something. After I close the bonnet, I can still locked my front door.

When I got off from work, Icannot open my front door via remote and have to use my key to open the door.

Drive back to PD and have my dinner. Park the car and can lock the door via remote. After dinner, the door can once again be opened via the remote..

Can the problem be due to the switch in the front bonnet. BTW, where is this switch located?

Please help...

[affan66]

could it be the central locking mechanism running out of sync with the remote? EWS perhaps?

[jarance]

could it be the central locking mechanism running out of sync with the remote? EWS perhaps?

maybe but really have no idea. if that is the problem, how to resyn it..

Problem is when I stop my car, I can usually open all doors by pressing the "Door" button located near the gearshift.. but when the bug "come", I cannot open or close the door when I press this button. I have to manually pull the door handle twice to open the door. (One to unlock and the second time to open)

Anyway, if the remote is out of syn with the remote, it should also have problem to lock the door. I do not have any problem locking and arm the alarm via the remote control. I can also open the window when I hold the "->" key on the remote..

[jarance]

BTW, I did removed the cover under the steering column to take out the sprint booster that was installed by the previous owner. Is the EWS located around this corner. I might have accidentally loosen some connectors.

affan, you want to buy a sprint booster. Selling cheap cheap..

[affan66]

no sprint booster for me.

Someone told me the EWS is together with the radio. Not so sure. Can check ETK/TIS.

You mentioned that you had reset the car by disconnecting the battery. I have no clue what is the problem now.Could be a loose wiring or broken door lock switch. typically, these kind of issues, I leave it to Ah Wai BMWorld. He will spend time to diagnose. He likes these kid of things. Unfortunately, he might take all day to do it. Or 2-3 days maybe :)

[jarance]

affan, Thanks for the info..

Will try ah wai if cannot solve the problem myself.

Was hoping someone might have encounter the same problem as me..

[jarance]

This morning try the remote and it works just fine... whew.. finger crossed and hope the gremlins would go for a holiday and not come back.

[jarance]

Just found out that the E46 have 2 modules. I think my problem is related to DWA rather than EWS.


Copy and paste from bimmerfest (QS7 author)

1. Your master key w/remote keyless entry buttons has TWO features:
DWA - keyless entry/anti-theft which locks/unlocks the car by pressing buttons integrated into key...and it activates/deactivates the alarm siren. BUT...there is NO LIMIT to how many times (up to) FOUR keys can be programmed into the DWA system. (this feature requires the use of the battery inside the key)
EWS - drive-away-protection (immobilizes the car by shutting down spark/fuel/ignition until the ISN (individual serial number) of the ECU, EWS control module, Ring Antenna around the ignition switch, and key all communicate with each other). (this feature is self-powering & works by sending a low frequency 125 KHz AM signal to the EWS Control Module which then converts it to a digital signal)

2. You car's DWA system can be programmed (by anyone) to accept the RF (radio signal) from FOUR master keys w/remote buttons to lock/unlock the car (this is the 1st key you program using the instructions below...PLUS 3 additional keys which is mentioned in the instructions below)

For example, since you have the new style key that recharges when it is in the ignition switch...if/when the battery dies in your key...you could possibly buy a used old style key off ebay and program it to lock/unlock your car doors then stick the original key (with the dead battery inside it) in the ignition to start the car. You could keep doing this over and over again buying a used key and program it to lock/unlock your car. These "used" keys will never start your car...but you can follow the simple instructions below to program it to lock/unlock the doors & trunk.
3. The EWS control module will only except the ISN (individual serial number) from the transponder embedded inside of 10 keys (this is ANY combination of BMW keys including the NON-REMOTE keys as well)...after that, you must purchase a new EWS Control Module and start all over with a new set of (up to 10) keys. The programming of the key and EWS control module can ONLY be done by BMW using its DIS proprietary software (and some people have some bootleg software that can also do it).

[jarance]

At last, found somebody who have the same problem as my car.

Go to this link for more info.. (Technical and DIY stuff)

http://www.bmwgm5.com/

[astroboy]

So its a ZKE module failure? Not cheap to replace. New one is above RM1k.. can go to chop shop to find, yet still cost above RM700 for a used one, plug and play.

[jarance]

So its a ZKE module failure? Not cheap to replace. New one is above RM1k.. can go to chop shop to find, yet still cost above RM700 for a used one, plug and play.

Woh so much.. Look like I will try to DIY first. If cannot then only replace the module or buy the replacement relay or bypass the circuit.

[okow]

I have the same problem. Started out just like yours, sometimes can sometimes cannot. Then one day it totally died and I couldnt use the remote for all doors and boot too. Am now using my spare key which works fine. Left it to my mechanic to figure out what can be done...
btw, i heard that some w/shop is selling at RM400 per key, programmed.

[jarance]

I have the same problem. Started out just like yours, sometimes can sometimes cannot. Then one day it totally died and I couldnt use the remote for all doors and boot too. Am now using my spare key which works fine. Left it to my mechanic to figure out what can be done...
btw, i heard that some w/shop is selling at RM400 per key, programmed.

Okow, I doubt it have any thing to do with the key if you cannot even open the door when you press the "LOCK" push button inside your car.

[okow]

Jarance, the problem I faced was only with my key. The lock, unlock button at the gear console works fine.

[jarance]

OIC, yes you do have a problem with the key if you can open the door with the unlock button at the gear console.

This applied for key that is diamond shape.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/E46Key.jpg

Maybe you can try this procedure to resyn your key. Thanks affan66 for the link.

Initialization Procedure.

1. Open central locking system using the car key.
2. Get into the car and close all doors.
3. Using the car key, switch the ignition lock briefly to position "1" and then switch off again. (Please do this switching within 5 seconds or otherwise the system is not ready for initialization.
4. At the remote control key. Press the "OPEN" key (->) and keep holding.
5. When holding the "OPEN" key, press the "LOCK" button three time.
6. After pressing the "LOCK" button 3 times, release the "OPEN" button.
7. If the initialization process is sucessful, the door will lock and unlock immediately to confirm the process.

Please try whether it works.

[jarance]

Did some research and found out that the problem with central locking is mainly due to the following:-

1. Actuator for the door lock/unlock.
2. Dead Bolt Actuator
3. Loose connection
4. GM5 or GMV or ZKE5 (depending on which country you are from)

Symthom of GM5 module problem :-
1. Mostly can lock but intermittently cannot unlock.
2. Need to use key to manually open the door on driver side.
3. Passenger door and rear door cannot be open by the inside door handle.
4. Internal "LOCK" push button on gearshift console also cannot open all doors.
5. Sound of "click" of the door trying to open but cannot open when the internal "LOCK" push button is activate.

If you have ALL of the aboves, then your problem is 99% GM5 module.

The BMW locking system basically consist of 2 actuators.
One actuator is for the lock/unlock function and the other actuator is for the deadbolt locking.
The deadbolt is activated inconjuction with alarm system and will prevent the door from opening even you use the internal door lever. This is the security measure of the alarm system and it will prevent somebody from entering your vehicle even if they break your window pane.
The 2 actuators is similarly applied for all 4 doors and 2 door for coupe model.

The GMS have 4 relays to switch all the 8 numbers of actuators plus another actuator for the petrol filling cover. However, due to the configuration of the 4 relays, one relay is always configured to switch all the 9 devices at the same time causing the contact to wear off prematurely. (In my opinion, this is an inherent flaw in the design).
When the contact is worn out, resistance will increase between the contact surfaces and hence will reduce the current flow to properly switch the deadbolt actuators and lock/unlock actuator.

If the deadbolt actuator fail to be released, it is impossible to open the door. You can confirm the deabolt is NOT release when you cannot open the passenger door by the internal door handle. However, the driver deadbolt actuator can be released manually by using the key.

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator to release the deadbolt.

The above is based on theory. I will try to DIY when I have the time.

Note, incase you happen to lock yourself in the car and cannot open the door from inside. Dont panic. Just wind down the window pane and open the door with your key. :stupid:

[jarance]

Whew, today everything is OK...

I am planning to retrofit another interposing relay with the power switching of all the 9 circuits. Most probably will buy a normal AUTO relay with contact rating of 20 A or more.

As the circuit is still working, i.e. contact still usable for low amp switching, it would be bette to transfer the load.

Have to check out the actual wiring schematic and do a few testing before will decide what is the best option.

Stay in touch for update.

[flash]

Lucky that you are in the same line and know about electronics. If it was me, I would have to get a new ZKE module....:sleep:

Whew, today everything is OK...

I am planning to retrofit another interposing relay with the power switching of all the 9 circuits. Most probably will buy a normal AUTO relay with contact rating of 20 A or more.

As the circuit is still working, i.e. contact still usable for low amp switching, it would be bette to transfer the load.

Have to check out the actual wiring schematic and do a few testing before will decide what is the best option.

Stay in touch for update.

[QD250]

Bro,

I also have this problem sometime with my remote. Click the remote, alarm sounds but the door does not lock / unlock. Have to press unlock / lock again before can lock / unlock with the alarm sound.

But my remote is the old one, not the diamond shape one. So how, got any advice?

Thanks

[rezzy3181]

QD beli baru aja solve the problem hahaha.

[QD250]

OIC, yes you do have a problem with the key if you can open the door with the unlock button at the gear console.

This applied for key that is diamond shape.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/E46Key.jpg

Maybe you can try this procedure to resyn your key. Thanks affan66 for the link.

Initialization Procedure.

1. Open central locking system using the car key.
2. Get into the car and close all doors.
3. Using the car key, switch the ignition lock briefly to position "1" and then switch off again. (Please do this switching within 5 seconds or otherwise the system is not ready for initialization.
4. At the remote control key. Press the "OPEN" key (->) and keep holding.
5. When holding the "OPEN" key, press the "LOCK" button three time.
6. After pressing the "LOCK" button 3 times, release the "OPEN" button.
7. If the initialization process is sucessful, the door will lock and unlock immediately to confirm the process.

Please try whether it works.

er, how to try this with the non-diamond type key??

[jarance]

Bro,

I also have this problem sometime with my remote. Click the remote, alarm sounds but the door does not lock / unlock. Have to press unlock / lock again before can lock / unlock with the alarm sound.

But my remote is the old one, not the diamond shape one. So how, got any advice?

Thanks

The diamond key is recharge when you plug it in the key slot. As your is the older version, I presummed that it is the squarish type, then your battery is old and voltage is low. Pls change the battery first and see how it goes. When the battery voltage is low, the correct signal to trigger the alarm is weak and hence your alarm will sometime work.

The older version door lock module is GM4. I dont think it have the resyn feature as the GM5 version.

[okow]

My problem is definitely the key, as one works fine and the other doesnt. Mechanic is tearing apart my diamond shaped fob, look for the battery and code...apparently mati liao. Cannot recharge.

[jarance]

My problem is definitely the key, as one works fine and the other doesnt. Mechanic is tearing apart my diamond shaped fob, look for the battery and code...apparently mati liao. Cannot recharge.

yo.. I am also still figuring how does the battery get charge when you insert it into the key slot.

Normally battery is charged by "+" and "-".. Apparently the key is only one contact point. :eek:

When your mech open the key, did you take picture? Would like to see the inside of the key. Dare not open mine cos still working..

[QD250]

thanks bro.... appreciate the feedback!

[jarance]

Lucky that you are in the same line and know about electronics. If it was me, I would have to get a new ZKE module....:sleep:

Same goes here.. I know nut about accounting and finance.. :stupid:

Everybody have their own interest but I do know some people who DIY not because of cost but to know their car better.. :wink:

Sometimes, there is no need to buy a new ZKE if it can repair with the help of the forummers advise. Afterall this is what the club is all about.. share.. share mah..:rolleyes:

[jarance]

check out this item 1..

http://static.bmwfans.info/images/epc/MTU3MTQ0X3A=.png (http://bmwfans.info/original/E46/tou/325i-M54/ECE/R/N/2004/10/mg-61/ill-61_2123/)

[QD250]

by the way, went to re-set my alarm over the weekend including changing the key's batteries....

now, everything is okay...

[jarance]

QD, glad to hear your problem is solved.

How much did you pay for the battery?

How did you reset your alarm..

[QD250]

went to the place that i installed it earlier in sg besi....

all in 350.... er, not a techie person... they did it....

[kskee]

hi guys

you might want to check out this link relating the GM5 module.

http://www.bmwgm5.com/default.htm

regards

[jarance]

hi guys

you might want to check out this link relating the GM5 module.

http://www.bmwgm5.com/default.htm

regards

kskkee, thank for the link... the link was already posted in post #10 of this thread..

Thanks for the reminder.. :rolleyes:

[kskee]

oooops......sorry about that ..... didn't notice..... :)

[jarance]

oooops......sorry about that ..... didn't notice..... :)

bro, no problem.. It good to share good information.. In fact, I think that web site is one of the most helpful site that I find that help me find out the problem with the E46 central locking.. :listen:

So how is going your with your ride? Any weird experience with the central locking with your ride.

[kskee]

yup....agreed..... a wealth of info on the web.... and thank God for forums like this....hehe

I'm driving a 1996 e39 528i ..... recently having intermittent problems with the central locking and power windows .... think mine is related to the General Module as well ....

still can't believe that BMW soldered the relays on the circuit board....damn .... I used to change the relays on my own for my earlier cars without any hassles.... if only my soldering 'kung fu' was good enough to try removing the relays from the circuit board....LOL

still looking for options on what I can do.... cos it seems to be working normally more often than not. ..... but dunno how long before i start climbing up the wall....LOL

[taggnas]

Since the weekend I have been facing a similar problem with the locks too! I can lock/unlock the doors manually but not with the key-remote system. Initially I thought the batteries died on me again and had them replaced. Bought 2 brand new Maxell 2016 batteris and still it doesn't work! I am still on manually mode. :(

Anyone has face this before? Any solutions/recommendations? Please advice.

Cheers.

[june_yap]

very useful information about central locking....
can anyone have link for E34 central locking as well?

mine after conversion, left right key can only perform lock, but cannot unlock.
only using rear boot key hole to lock and unlock.... and also when first lock will jump up, have to perform second time lock.
zzzzzzz.......
pls help.

[Iqlima]

very useful information about central locking....
can anyone have link for E34 central locking as well?

mine after conversion, left right key can only perform lock, but cannot unlock.
only using rear boot key hole to lock and unlock.... and also when first lock will jump up, have to perform second time lock.
zzzzzzz.......
pls help.

You got to open your door to see the real problem . go here to have idea how it works.

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/ go under fixes-body & interior

Last week left only one door able to operate , others 3 door not work with central lock system and here is the problem

1) Driver door - holder break
2) Passenger door - adjustment of servo.
3) Left rear door - stuck door lock mechanism

[jarance]

You got to open your door to see the real problem . go here to have idea how it works.

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/ go under fixes-body & interior

Last week left only one door able to operate , others 3 door not work with central lock system and here is the problem

1) Driver door - holder break
2) Passenger door - adjustment of servo.
3) Left rear door - stuck door lock mechanism

3 doors and 3 different type of problems.. I think the problems occurred over a span of several months.

You are lucky that the 4th door did not jam or else you will be admiring the car and not drive it.. :wink:

[jarance]

very useful information about central locking....
can anyone have link for E34 central locking as well?

mine after conversion, left right key can only perform lock, but cannot unlock.
only using rear boot key hole to lock and unlock.... and also when first lock will jump up, have to perform second time lock.
zzzzzzz.......
pls help.

what sort of conversion did you do?

If you can use the boot key to lock and unlock, your central locking module is most probably GM4 which is also similar to E36 model.

BTW, your key is the diamond shape or the squarish type.

[june_yap]

what sort of conversion did you do?

If you can use the boot key to lock and unlock, your central locking module is most probably GM4 which is also similar to E36 model.

BTW, your key is the diamond shape or the squarish type.

my key is squarish shape type...
conversion from M20 to M50B25 (all wiring changed)

so, any advice on how to solve this puzzle? :listen:

[Iqlima]

3 doors and 3 different type of problems.. I think the problems occurred over a span of several months.

You are lucky that the 4th door did not jam or else you will be admiring the car and not drive it.. :wink:

indeed, one after another door stop functioning. That's the main reason why I decide to open up to look after the problem.

[jarance]

my key is squarish shape type...
conversion from M20 to M50B25 (all wiring changed)

so, any advice on how to solve this puzzle? :listen:

Not familiar with your model or controller but can only a few tips.

1. To eliminate the problem with the keys or its battery, try to lock or unlock with spare key.

If same problem, then the key is not communicating with the central alarm module.

2. You mentioned that you did a conversion, how many module was replaced and which module.

There are about 4 to 5 modules that are interlink to each other. Some will disable/enable engine firing,
some will control gear b/box, door, boot, fuel cover and windows.

You mention that you have lock two times. It look like the deadbolt actuator is acting faster than the unlock actuator.

3. When you press the lock knob on the driver door, did all the doors lock by itself?

4. When you are in the car and all the lock knob are down, did all the door unlocked when you open the driver door?

Sorry for ask so many question as it is quite difficult to diagnose a car problem without actually seeing it.

[june_yap]

Not familiar with your model or controller but can only a few tips.

1. To eliminate the problem with the keys or its battery, try to lock or unlock with spare key.

If same problem, then the key is not communicating with the central alarm module.
=yes, spare key also act same.

2. You mentioned that you did a conversion, how many module was replaced and which module.

There are about 4 to 5 modules that are interlink to each other. Some will disable/enable engine firing,
some will control gear b/box, door, boot, fuel cover and windows.

You mention that you have lock two times. It look like the deadbolt actuator is acting faster than the unlock actuator.
=this one not yet check. cause wiring very headache. but will check after cny with mechanic.

3. When you press the lock knob on the driver door, did all the doors lock by itself?
=yes.

4. When you are in the car and all the lock knob are down, did all the door unlocked when you open the driver door?
=yes.

Sorry for ask so many question as it is quite difficult to diagnose a car problem without actually seeing it.
=no problem, thanks for doing manual diagnose for me...

[jarance]

based on your reply, check the wiring of the deadbolt actuator and the lock actuator wiring. They might be reverse.

Have the mechanic to check the wiring.. It is a tedious work and you will need to download the wiring schematic to trouble shoot it properly. Sorry, I cant help you further as I have limited experience with your model.

[525i]

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator

Jarance,

I am 99% sure that my E34 GM has failed based on your symtoms listed. Your countermeasure No. 4 is interesting as it would be the simplest/cheapest way to repair this. Have you done it? How to know which wire to bypass?

[jarance]

525i, do you have the wiring schematic for the door for E34? I think you can download it from somewhere.

For, E36, the colour is black colour.

If you dont know the color, just open your door and look for the deadbolt actuator. It located near the door handle and hiding near the edge. You will have to open the door and remove the back panel. Be careful with the clip as it tend to break easily when you put back the cover. There should be a plastic cover which is stick on by black tar like material.

[Iqlima]

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator

Jarance,

I am 99% sure that my E34 GM has failed based on your symtoms listed. Your countermeasure No. 4 is interesting as it would be the simplest/cheapest way to repair this. Have you done it? How to know which wire to bypass?

E34 and E32 share the door system, browse the E32 web if can't find E34 info. Example I gave on my previous post

[525i]

Ok, I'll give it a try and see how it goes. Is the deadbolt actuator at every door or only at the driver side? So I just remove the wires to this unit and it should be bypassed?

I took out the General Module and everyhing was nice and clean. So I can't do much there.

[june_yap]

wow, so complicated.... cant really understand la... hehe...
dont know where to start, but sounds like many solutions....

[jarance]

Ok, I'll give it a try and see how it goes. Is the deadbolt actuator at every door or only at the driver side? So I just remove the wires to this unit and it should be bypassed?

I took out the General Module and everyhing was nice and clean. So I can't do much there.

The GM module will look fine. It is the relay contact that is having the problem. i.e. worn out due to the constant switching.

I have opened my GM module yesterday and found the same condition as you. The relay is seal and cannot be open without having it to desolder from it based. I left at that as I did not have any problem with my central locking (touch wood).

Anyway, I did a few testing on the output of the module to see which circuit activated what but could not really figured its function. Anyway, it was late and did not proceed further.

Yes the deadbolt is on every doors. If the deadbolt is activated, all doors cannot be open from the inside door handle.

[jarance]

A bit update.. :listen:

1. Location of the GM5 module with the 3 cables connectors removed.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020576.jpg

2. Part Number of the module.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020578.jpg

3. External View of the Module.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020579.jpg

4. View of the cover open showing the PCB
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020581.jpg

5. View of the exposed GM5 Module card.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020582.jpg

Did some testing but only managed to find the pinout for the power windows. However, have not managed to find the pinout for the door.

BTW, the power windows circuits are shorted to negative when the motor is NOT running. One of the lead will goes to positive to open and the 2nd leads will goes to positive to closed. :wink:

[Harvey]

Bros, i have just replace the GM5 relay in penang. The w/shop charge me RM500. is that expensive?

[jarance]

Bros, i have just replace the GM5 relay in penang. The w/shop charge me RM500. is that expensive?

It is quite cheap.. BTW, do you have to resyn the key or it is just plug and play.

[Harvey]

nope. just replace relay only

[jarance]

nope. just replace relay only

Pls clarify.

Relay as in black thing on the printed circuit board or the GM5 module (PCB in the white box)

[Harvey]

i myself also not really sure. let me check with the w/shop, then will let u know..

[mbm8800]

gud day all..

i was having d same prob few month back... unfortunately, i have 2 change the whole central locking device ( it's cum 2gether wit the hazard switch ) coz it's totally kaput resulted from d spillage of my sons susu!!:eek::eek: and it cost me less than RM300 if i'm not mistaken.. not sure lorh coz my wife yang anta to the bengkel...:wink::wink:

cheerss...

[zammie]

Ok guys, now it's my turn to have this problem! :(

First time (last weekend), I could open the door on second attempt. Second time (on Tue night), it took several minutes for me to get the door open. Right now the doors refuse to open no matter how many times I'm trying!!

Here are the symptoms as I can see them now:

1) Press open, driver door does not unlock. Slight click only, and the lights come on
2) Press open again, other doors do not open too
3) Can open the boot as per normal
4) Can open and close all windows by holding the 'open' and 'lock' buttons
5) After opening the window this way, I still can't open the door via the door handle
6) Car seems to 'lock' as per normal after trying step 1 & 2: Cabin lights go out, side indicators light up once. Button next to ASC switch flashes 10 times quickly then resumes a slow steady pattern.

Jarance, can help diagnose my car before I send it to the workshop? Thanks bro!!

[jarance]

Did some research and found out that the problem with central locking is mainly due to the following:-

1. Actuator for the door lock/unlock.
2. Dead Bolt Actuator
3. Loose connection
4. GM5 or GMV or ZKE5 (depending on which country you are from)

Symthom of GM5 module problem :-
1. Mostly can lock but intermittently cannot unlock.
2. Need to use key to manually open the door on driver side.
3. Passenger door and rear door cannot be open by the inside door handle.
4. Internal "LOCK" push button on gearshift console also cannot open all doors.
5. Sound of "click" of the door trying to open but cannot open when the internal "LOCK" push button is activate.

If you have ALL of the aboves, then your problem is 99% GM5 module.

The BMW locking system basically consist of 2 actuators.
One actuator is for the lock/unlock function and the other actuator is for the deadbolt locking.
The deadbolt is activated inconjuction with alarm system and will prevent the door from opening even you use the internal door lever. This is the security measure of the alarm system and it will prevent somebody from entering your vehicle even if they break your window pane.
The 2 actuators is similarly applied for all 4 doors and 2 door for coupe model.

The GMS have 4 relays to switch all the 8 numbers of actuators plus another actuator for the petrol filling cover. However, due to the configuration of the 4 relays, one relay is always configured to switch all the 9 devices at the same time causing the contact to wear off prematurely. (In my opinion, this is an inherent flaw in the design).
When the contact is worn out, resistance will increase between the contact surfaces and hence will reduce the current flow to properly switch the deadbolt actuators and lock/unlock actuator.

If the deadbolt actuator fail to be released, it is impossible to open the door. You can confirm the deabolt is NOT release when you cannot open the passenger door by the internal door handle. However, the driver deadbolt actuator can be released manually by using the key.

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator to release the deadbolt.

The above is based on theory. I will try to DIY when I have the time.

Note, incase you happen to lock yourself in the car and cannot open the door from inside. Dont panic. Just wind down the window pane and open the door with your key.

[jarance]

Ok guys, now it's my turn to have this problem! :(

First time (last weekend), I could open the door on second attempt. Second time (on Tue night), it took several minutes for me to get the door open. Right now the doors refuse to open no matter how many times I'm trying!!

Here are the symptoms as I can see them now:

1) Press open, driver door does not unlock. Slight click only, and the lights come on
2) Press open again, other doors do not open too
3) Can open the boot as per normal
4) Can open and close all windows by holding the 'open' and 'lock' buttons
5) After opening the window this way, I still can't open the door via the door handle
6) Car seems to 'lock' as per normal after trying step 1 & 2: Cabin lights go out, side indicators light up once. Button next to ASC switch flashes 10 times quickly then resumes a slow steady pattern.

Jarance, can help diagnose my car before I send it to the workshop? Thanks bro!!

It the GM5 module..

[zulkifli]

It the GM5 module..

Try install voltage stabilizer.....its work for me

[jarance]

Try install voltage stabilizer.....its work for me

bro, how can installing a voltage stabilizer resolve the central locking problem?

A voltage stabilizer works in stabilizing voltage from the alternator when the engine is running.


When you want to open your door, I dont think your engine is running.

[kby*88*]

here is my symptom

1. I need to manually lock my car using key. If i use the remote, sometime the alarm will triggered on its own. however, i can unlock my car using the remote
2. sometime, when i use the "LOCK" button to unlock all 4 doors, it will do nothing and got some "click" sound. Pres 2,3 time then ok
3. sometime when i unlock my car using the remote, all 4 doors will be unlocked...but most of the time press 1 time, only drivers side will unlock, press 2nd the remaining will unlock.

any idea?

[jarance]

here is my symptom

1. I need to manually lock my car using key. If i use the remote, sometime the alarm will triggered on its own. however, i can unlock my car using the remote
If you have to use your key to lock without triggering the alarm, then there is possibility that one of the "door lock sensor" or "boot lock sensor" is NOT giving the lock signal to the GM5 module that it is locked. Manually locking the doors via the key does not activate the alarm.


2. sometime, when i use the "LOCK" button to unlock all 4 doors, it will do nothing and got some "click" sound. Pres 2,3 time then ok.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.

3. sometime when i unlock my car using the remote, all 4 doors will be unlocked...but most of the time press 1 time, only drivers side will unlock, press 2nd the remaining will unlock.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.


Try to resyn your key. Unfortunately, the battery have to be changed if it is not charging properly. To confirm that it is your key problem rather than the GM5 module, try to use your SPARE key after you have charge it.

any idea?

Reply in blue

[kby*88*]

Reply in blue

thanks jarance for ur reply

1. I need to manually lock my car using key. If i use the remote, sometime the alarm will triggered on its own. however, i can unlock my car using the remote
If you have to use your key to lock without triggering the alarm, then there is possibility that one of the "door lock sensor" or "boot lock sensor" is NOT giving the lock signal to the GM5 module that it is locked. Manually locking the doors via the key does not activate the alarm.
--if the alarm trigger, usually it will be a few minutes after i locked the car, not immediately after i lock the car. and sometime when park the car by the road side, if got any car, lorry passing by, then it will trigger


2. sometime, when i use the "LOCK" button to unlock all 4 doors, it will do nothing and got some "click" sound. Pres 2,3 time then ok.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.
-FYI, the "lock" button that i'm reffering to is the one at the gear console...

3. sometime when i unlock my car using the remote, all 4 doors will be unlocked...but most of the time press 1 time, only drivers side will unlock, press 2nd the remaining will unlock.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.


Try to resyn your key. Unfortunately, the battery have to be changed if it is not charging properly. To confirm that it is your key problem rather than the GM5 module, try to use your SPARE key after you have charge it.


i did sync my key for few times d. when ever after sync, it works perfect. however, after few days, then it will become pening back,he

will try to start using my spare key n see...


any idea?

[jarance]

1. I need to manually lock my car using key. If i use the remote, sometime the alarm will triggered on its own. however, i can unlock my car using the remote
If you have to use your key to lock without triggering the alarm, then there is possibility that one of the "door lock sensor" or "boot lock sensor" is NOT giving the lock signal to the GM5 module that it is locked. Manually locking the doors via the key does not activate the alarm.

--if the alarm trigger, usually it will be a few minutes after i locked the car, not immediately after i lock the car. and sometime when park the car by the road side, if got any car, lorry passing by, then it will trigger
Your car may have shock or proximity sensor. It might be too sensitive. I know mine have cos I also got the alarm trigger once when I was working outside and near the car when the alarm was armed.

2. sometime, when i use the "LOCK" button to unlock all 4 doors, it will do nothing and got some "click" sound. Pres 2,3 time then ok.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.

-FYI, the "lock" button that i'm reffering to is the one at the gear console...
OIC, In that case, you have open the door manually when you have problem opening your car earlier via your remote. The GM5 module did not release the deadbolt lock. Hence you cannot open your door from the inside "OPEN/LOCK" button near the gear console. You will need to pull the door handle twice in order to open your door. If I am not mistaken, only your door can be open and NOT the passenger door. Please see post #61. item 3 & 4.
A bit embarrassing when people have to climb out the driver side to get in/out.


3. sometime when i unlock my car using the remote, all 4 doors will be unlocked...but most of the time press 1 time, only drivers side will unlock, press 2nd the remaining will unlock.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.

Try to resyn your key. Unfortunately, the battery have to be changed if it is not charging properly. To confirm that it is your key problem rather than the GM5 module, try to use your SPARE key after you have charge it.


i did sync my key for few times d. when ever after sync, it works perfect. however, after few days, then it will become pening back,he

will try to start using my spare key n see...

[zulkifli]

bro, how can installing a voltage stabilizer resolve the central locking problem?

A voltage stabilizer works in stabilizing voltage from the alternator when the engine is running.


When you want to open your door, I dont think your engine is running.

If I remove my VS, after 2 days my central lock kaput. When reinstall back, drive about 40km then my central lock back to normal. I try this few times.....it work

[jarance]

If I remove my VS, after 2 days my central lock kaput. When reinstall back, drive about 40km then my central lock back to normal. I try this few times.....it work

Thanks for clarifying.

So what you are saying is that so far you do not have any problem after the VS was installed..

[zulkifli]

Yes....already 1 year without problem.

[jarance]

Yes....already 1 year without problem.

OK.. If it works for you then I suppose the solution might works for others..

[jarance]

Bro,

I'm having the same problem. Some time can sometime cannot especially on hot wheather. Can unlock using the button near handbrake. Sometimes cant even manually unlock at the inner door handle. Send for diagnostic & shows general module fault. Check out the price bout RM1500:thefinger:

Unker is it the same one? Located behind the glovebox. err mine old E46 oni

Yes, when I have the same problem as you. i.e. sometime can sometime cannot. The intermittent problem seem to happen more often when it was under the hot sun for a while.

read thru the thread from the beginning till the end. It will give you an idea what your problem is.

If the GM5 module is faulty, it should not intermittent. Electronic module either work or they dont. if they fail, they will remain fail. It will not self recovered. I dont think BMW have nano technology that can self heal.

Suggest that you remove the module first and try to clean the contact at the module and the connectors with a contact cleaner. Endure that the connectors are inserted properly back to the module.

[initialM]

Unker Jarance,

Ur really DIY King. My problem & sympthom is exactly like yours. I also notice it will happen if park under hot sun too. Already asked my mech to take out the module & spray wt cleaner. So far so good. What is yr opinion on the VS solution?
So you changed the module?

[initialM]

Anybody experience some problem with E46 central locking:-


1. Cannot open the all the doors by the internal "Open Door" push button.

2. Cannot open the driver door by the remote control. However, the windows opens when continuously press the "->" (or unlock button on the remote control).

3. Can lock all doors when the remote "lock" button or "internal push button" is pressed.
Can also open the rear boot when the remote "boot" PB is pressed.

4. When press the "internal open door", there was a slight click but the door did not open.

5. When press the lock key on remote, the door cannot be open from inside lever. Got me worried :eek: for a while as could not get out of the car. Luckily can open the window and use key to manually unlock the door.:wink:


My problem is exactly the same. Maybe the gremlins has run away from yr car & come to my car. Damn. :burnout::thefinger:

[initialM]

If the GM5 module is faulty, it should not intermittent. Electronic module either work or they dont. if they fail, they will remain fail. It will not self recovered. I dont think BMW have nano technology that can self heal.

Suggest that you remove the module first and try to clean the contact at the module and the connectors with a contact cleaner. Endure that the connectors are inserted properly back to the module.

Diagnostic result shows the General Module faulty but yr idea on electronic intermittent is correct oso. By the way can u show the exact pics of the connectors that need to be cleaned?

[jarance]

Unker Jarance,

Ur really DIY King. My problem & sympthom is exactly like yours. I also notice it will happen if park under hot sun too. Already asked my mech to take out the module & spray wt cleaner. So far so good. What is yr opinion on the VS solution?
So you changed the module?

I have my reservation about the VS solution but for one of the forummer it seem to work for him. VS works by stabilizing voltage from the alternator and also filter "noise" generated from it.

You sometime cannot open the door when your car is STOP so I cannot see the function of the VS when the alternator is not generating any voltage to charge the battery.

Nope, my module is still original. I did not change it cos the gremlin have gone away after I mandi the car with bunga wangi.:rock:

Seriously, I just clean the connectors.

[jarance]

Diagnostic result shows the General Module faulty but yr idea on electronic intermittent is correct oso. By the way can u show the exact pics of the connectors that need to be cleaned?

I didnt know the GM5 module is that intelligent to be able to generate a fault code. Guess I have to do some R&D about it again. :wink:

Will post some picture on Monday cos now on slow bandwidth

[jarance]

Diagnostic result shows the General Module faulty but yr idea on electronic intermittent is correct oso. By the way can u show the exact pics of the connectors that need to be cleaned?

Here is a picture of the module with the connector disconnect.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020576.jpg


View of the connector at the back. The one with multiple pin is for the door lock. The one with thicker pin is for the power window.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020582.jpg

[jarance]

Here is how to remove the connectors.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/E46%20Alarm/GM5moduleconnector.jpg

[initialM]

Unker,

After cleaned the connector, the gremlin still persists on my car. I think the culprit hangs on the relay which coz problem of unlock. Maybe still need to change the GM5. Damn:thefinger:

[jarance]

Unker,

After cleaned the connector, the gremlin still persists on my car. I think the culprit hangs on the relay which coz problem of unlock. Maybe still need to change the GM5. Damn:thefinger:

If you suspect it the relay that have worn out contacts, why dont you consider to sent it to UK for repair.

[initialM]

If you suspect it the relay that have worn out contacts, why dont you consider to sent it to UK for repair.

Aiyah very troublesome & with the cost I better buy brand new one.
I think I need you to mandi bunga my car lar:burnout:

[jarance]

Aiyah very troublesome & with the cost I better buy brand new one.
I think I need you to mandi bunga my car lar:burnout:

Maybe, I can start a business repairing GM5 module in my spare time. I have all the tools. Just need to buy the special relay from UK (two coils in one) or modify two relays and rewired it outside.

[jarance]

Aiyah very troublesome & with the cost I better buy brand new one.
I think I need you to mandi bunga my car lar:burnout:

Oh yeah, I just realize that buying a new module is not the only cost that you have to consider. You might need to pay extra to recode the GM5 to accept your old keys.

Wonder how much is the recode cost in Malaysia.:motz:

[astroboy]

Jarance! Buy everything! :thefinger:

[jarance]

Jarance! Buy everything! :thefinger:

hello friend! What is everything? You think I vely rich like you. :thefinger:

[hakim_radzuan]

Unker,

After cleaned the connector, the gremlin still persists on my car. I think the culprit hangs on the relay which coz problem of unlock. Maybe still need to change the GM5. Damn:thefinger:

Mine cannot unlock last few feeks. Even passenger door also cant opem from inside. When diagnose witg gt1,confirm gm5 kaput..new one cost rm1700 without recode. But thank god i found an used unit from stuggart taman mayang. RM650 plus rm150 for recode...pheww problem solve.

[initialM]

Mine cannot unlock last few feeks. Even passenger door also cant opem from inside. When diagnose witg gt1,confirm gm5 kaput..new one cost rm1700 without recode. But thank god i found an used unit from stuggart taman mayang. RM650 plus rm150 for recode...pheww problem solve.

Been contemplating to get used one at the same price but worry on the durability (especially the relay). In SG GM5 cost bout RM1400 uncoded.

Unker Jarance,

Since the problem is the relay, I need yr advice on what to do. My mech advice to buy new but already cannot tahan. Every month spent thousands of RM on this pampered BMW. My piggybank getting low:burnout:

[jarance]

I have checked the www and found the following info from bmwgm5.com about the fault.

Copy from that page the fault and code.

ZKE 2 (0x02) - Fuse for ZV
ZKE 7 (0x07) - Module not coded {Signal STDWA (only relevant if an anti-theft alarm is fitted)
ZKE 9 (0x09) - Front Window Relay Left Side (Drivers Side)
ZKE 10 (0x0A) - Front Window Relay Right Side (Passenger Side)
ZKE 39 (0x27) - Central Locking Relays, Driver Door Unlocking (R2bNC)
ZKE 40 (0x28) - Central Locking Relays, Passenger Door Locking (R1aNO)
ZKE 41 (0x29) - Central Locking Relays, Driver & Passenger Door Unlocking {Relay for central locking - ulocking or Relay for rear FH drive (passenger's side) sticks} (R1bNO)
ZKE 42 (0x2A) - Relay for central locking, double locking
ZKE 43 (0x2B) - Central Locking Relays, Driver Door Locking (R2bNO)
ZKE 48 (0x30) - Wire to relay module -passenger's side FH, rear
ZKE 51 (0x33) - Wipers: blocking protection active
ZKE 61 (0x3D) - Fuse for passenger- compartment sensor
ZKE 66 (0x42) - Connection for relay module to power window driver side front faulty
ZKE (0x81) - DWA alarm memory: door contact, driver's door
ZKE (0x85) - DWA alarm memory: tailgate
ZKE (0x88) - DWA alarm memory: hood

Based on the fault code, it look like you dont need to replace the GM5 but only the appropriate item that is giving the problem.

[jarance]

Been contemplating to get used one at the same price but worry on the durability (especially the relay). In SG GM5 cost bout RM1400 uncoded.

Unker Jarance,

Since the problem is the relay, I need yr advice on what to do. My mech advice to buy new but already cannot tahan. Every month spent thousands of RM on this pampered BMW. My piggybank getting low:burnout:

I help save a bit lah.. You buy the relay and I do the work for you (FOC) cos you will be my first customer.

[jarance]

Mine cannot unlock last few feeks. Even passenger door also cant opem from inside. When diagnose witg gt1,confirm gm5 kaput..new one cost rm1700 without recode. But thank god i found an used unit from stuggart taman mayang. RM650 plus rm150 for recode...pheww problem solve.

HR, do you have the old unit with you. maybe I can salvage some parts from it. :burnout:

RM150 is reasonable for the recoding.

BTW, what was the fault code when check with GT1 diagnostic tools.

[jarance]

I think I know how to solve the problem.

Based on the info from bmwgm5.com, the problem is due one relay taking all the load which cause the contact to wear prematurely.

Solution is to distribute the load with another relay located outside the module.

In order to prove my theory, I need a volunteer who have GM5 module problem for me to experiment.

The job involve cutting 8 nos of wires and wired to the new relay.

Cost of relay shall 5 amp rating but shall have 4poles to share the load of the 8 motors (actuator). Previously one contact (20 Amp rated) take the load of 8 actuator. The surge current cause the contact to wear off. if the load are distributed over 4 contacts, the wear is less. Furthermore, if one contact wear off, only one door is affected rather than 4 doors at the same time.

IM, so planning to spend RM800 or RM100 for OM or RM200 for non OM (my cost).

[initialM]

Unker J,

Decided to follow yr advice to mandi bunga my car. The gremlins seems to go away.
Tested few times parked in hot sun, no problem at all.:rock:
Hope it stays that way. Thank god for saving me a fortune:smokin:

[jarance]

Unker J,

Decided to follow yr advice to mandi bunga my car. The gremlins seems to go away.
Tested few times parked in hot sun, no problem at all.:rock:
Hope it stays that way. Thank god for saving me a fortune:smokin:

Ha ha.. This is the first time my special idea works..:cool:

Wonder whose car the gremlins will go to? :smokin: :burnout:

[initialM]

They will go back to yr car hahahaha.

Actually I did the "thingy" as your advice & it works so far hehehe

[jarance]

They will go back to yr car hahahaha.

Actually I did thingy as your advice & it works so far hehehe

Active shield - set ON maximum mode. :cool:
Air Wangi - Set on mid spray. :wink:
Anti gremlin - Set on maximum mode. :cool:

sshhh.. dont tell everybody about the thingy.. It is my secret. I only tell it to my friends. :rock:

[jarance]

No volunteer for the testing?

[initialM]

No volunteer for the testing?

Unker J,

I want to volunteer lar. The gremlin comin back ler. Damn:smokin:

[jarance]

Unker J,

I want to volunteer lar. The gremlin comin back ler. Damn:smokin:

So when are you down in KL area..:smokin:

[jarance]

OK here is a picture of what going into your car. It a plug-in relay come with base. That way if the relay contact is worn out, you just change the relay without having to do any soldering..
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/E46%20Alarm/relaywithbase.jpg

I will not shocked you with the wires that I am going to cut... snip snip.. no for the faint hearted.

[jarance]

I got a faulty GM5 module that was pass to me for repair.

After "playing" with it, i.e. cleaning, soldering terminals etc, I tried on my car. Well the problem seem to be solved for a few days. However, after a few days testing, the door refuse to open.. (!@#$%^&*) bloody GM5 module failed again. So back to square ONE.

Anyway, I decided to modify the circuit since the owner have given permission to do anything to get it work again.

I have modified it by adding another miniature power relay to assist the existing relay. Well guess what... It works!!!

Now the modified unit is still under testing for a week. so far so good. (Under hot sun, raining or any condition). I will continue to test it for 2 more weeks before I decide.

The beauty is, the repair cost is less than RM50.. (if it work)