Central Locking Kaput..

[jarance]

Anybody experience some problem with E46 central locking:-

Just experience a strange problem with my central locking on Saturday.

1. Cannot open the all the doors by the internal "Open Door" push button.

2. Cannot open the driver door by the remote control. However, the windows opens when continuously press the "->" (or unlock button on the remote control).

3. Can lock all doors when the remote "lock" button or "internal push button" is pressed.
Can also open the rear boot when the remote "boot" PB is pressed.

4. When press the "internal open door", there was a slight click but the door did not open.

5. When press the lock key on remote, the door cannot be open from inside lever. Got me worried :eek: for a while as could not get out of the car. Luckily can open the window and use key to manually unlock the door.:wink:

6. Try to disconnect the battery supply to recycle the EWS, ECU and whatnot. Did not work.:stupid:

Yesterday on Sunday, the alarm went off for no reason.. Press the "->" and alarm is silenced. Try to open and close door and found that every thing just work perfectly.. :love:

Note: Found that the driver side only have key lock whereas the passenger side door does not have any lock (similar to the rear door handle)

[jarance]

Oh no, it just happen again.. Cannot open the door via remote.

I have open my front bonnet to check something. After I close the bonnet, I can still locked my front door.

When I got off from work, Icannot open my front door via remote and have to use my key to open the door.

Drive back to PD and have my dinner. Park the car and can lock the door via remote. After dinner, the door can once again be opened via the remote..

Can the problem be due to the switch in the front bonnet. BTW, where is this switch located?

Please help...

[affan66]

could it be the central locking mechanism running out of sync with the remote? EWS perhaps?

[jarance]

could it be the central locking mechanism running out of sync with the remote? EWS perhaps?

maybe but really have no idea. if that is the problem, how to resyn it..

Problem is when I stop my car, I can usually open all doors by pressing the "Door" button located near the gearshift.. but when the bug "come", I cannot open or close the door when I press this button. I have to manually pull the door handle twice to open the door. (One to unlock and the second time to open)

Anyway, if the remote is out of syn with the remote, it should also have problem to lock the door. I do not have any problem locking and arm the alarm via the remote control. I can also open the window when I hold the "->" key on the remote..

[jarance]

BTW, I did removed the cover under the steering column to take out the sprint booster that was installed by the previous owner. Is the EWS located around this corner. I might have accidentally loosen some connectors.

affan, you want to buy a sprint booster. Selling cheap cheap..

[affan66]

no sprint booster for me.

Someone told me the EWS is together with the radio. Not so sure. Can check ETK/TIS.

You mentioned that you had reset the car by disconnecting the battery. I have no clue what is the problem now.Could be a loose wiring or broken door lock switch. typically, these kind of issues, I leave it to Ah Wai BMWorld. He will spend time to diagnose. He likes these kid of things. Unfortunately, he might take all day to do it. Or 2-3 days maybe :)

[jarance]

affan, Thanks for the info..

Will try ah wai if cannot solve the problem myself.

Was hoping someone might have encounter the same problem as me..

[jarance]

This morning try the remote and it works just fine... whew.. finger crossed and hope the gremlins would go for a holiday and not come back.

[jarance]

Just found out that the E46 have 2 modules. I think my problem is related to DWA rather than EWS.


Copy and paste from bimmerfest (QS7 author)

1. Your master key w/remote keyless entry buttons has TWO features:
DWA - keyless entry/anti-theft which locks/unlocks the car by pressing buttons integrated into key...and it activates/deactivates the alarm siren. BUT...there is NO LIMIT to how many times (up to) FOUR keys can be programmed into the DWA system. (this feature requires the use of the battery inside the key)
EWS - drive-away-protection (immobilizes the car by shutting down spark/fuel/ignition until the ISN (individual serial number) of the ECU, EWS control module, Ring Antenna around the ignition switch, and key all communicate with each other). (this feature is self-powering & works by sending a low frequency 125 KHz AM signal to the EWS Control Module which then converts it to a digital signal)

2. You car's DWA system can be programmed (by anyone) to accept the RF (radio signal) from FOUR master keys w/remote buttons to lock/unlock the car (this is the 1st key you program using the instructions below...PLUS 3 additional keys which is mentioned in the instructions below)

For example, since you have the new style key that recharges when it is in the ignition switch...if/when the battery dies in your key...you could possibly buy a used old style key off ebay and program it to lock/unlock your car doors then stick the original key (with the dead battery inside it) in the ignition to start the car. You could keep doing this over and over again buying a used key and program it to lock/unlock your car. These "used" keys will never start your car...but you can follow the simple instructions below to program it to lock/unlock the doors & trunk.
3. The EWS control module will only except the ISN (individual serial number) from the transponder embedded inside of 10 keys (this is ANY combination of BMW keys including the NON-REMOTE keys as well)...after that, you must purchase a new EWS Control Module and start all over with a new set of (up to 10) keys. The programming of the key and EWS control module can ONLY be done by BMW using its DIS proprietary software (and some people have some bootleg software that can also do it).

[jarance]

At last, found somebody who have the same problem as my car.

Go to this link for more info.. (Technical and DIY stuff)

http://www.bmwgm5.com/

[astroboy]

So its a ZKE module failure? Not cheap to replace. New one is above RM1k.. can go to chop shop to find, yet still cost above RM700 for a used one, plug and play.

[jarance]

So its a ZKE module failure? Not cheap to replace. New one is above RM1k.. can go to chop shop to find, yet still cost above RM700 for a used one, plug and play.

Woh so much.. Look like I will try to DIY first. If cannot then only replace the module or buy the replacement relay or bypass the circuit.

[okow]

I have the same problem. Started out just like yours, sometimes can sometimes cannot. Then one day it totally died and I couldnt use the remote for all doors and boot too. Am now using my spare key which works fine. Left it to my mechanic to figure out what can be done...
btw, i heard that some w/shop is selling at RM400 per key, programmed.

[jarance]

I have the same problem. Started out just like yours, sometimes can sometimes cannot. Then one day it totally died and I couldnt use the remote for all doors and boot too. Am now using my spare key which works fine. Left it to my mechanic to figure out what can be done...
btw, i heard that some w/shop is selling at RM400 per key, programmed.

Okow, I doubt it have any thing to do with the key if you cannot even open the door when you press the "LOCK" push button inside your car.

[okow]

Jarance, the problem I faced was only with my key. The lock, unlock button at the gear console works fine.

[jarance]

OIC, yes you do have a problem with the key if you can open the door with the unlock button at the gear console.

This applied for key that is diamond shape.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/E46Key.jpg

Maybe you can try this procedure to resyn your key. Thanks affan66 for the link.

Initialization Procedure.

1. Open central locking system using the car key.
2. Get into the car and close all doors.
3. Using the car key, switch the ignition lock briefly to position "1" and then switch off again. (Please do this switching within 5 seconds or otherwise the system is not ready for initialization.
4. At the remote control key. Press the "OPEN" key (->) and keep holding.
5. When holding the "OPEN" key, press the "LOCK" button three time.
6. After pressing the "LOCK" button 3 times, release the "OPEN" button.
7. If the initialization process is sucessful, the door will lock and unlock immediately to confirm the process.

Please try whether it works.

[jarance]

Did some research and found out that the problem with central locking is mainly due to the following:-

1. Actuator for the door lock/unlock.
2. Dead Bolt Actuator
3. Loose connection
4. GM5 or GMV or ZKE5 (depending on which country you are from)

Symthom of GM5 module problem :-
1. Mostly can lock but intermittently cannot unlock.
2. Need to use key to manually open the door on driver side.
3. Passenger door and rear door cannot be open by the inside door handle.
4. Internal "LOCK" push button on gearshift console also cannot open all doors.
5. Sound of "click" of the door trying to open but cannot open when the internal "LOCK" push button is activate.

If you have ALL of the aboves, then your problem is 99% GM5 module.

The BMW locking system basically consist of 2 actuators.
One actuator is for the lock/unlock function and the other actuator is for the deadbolt locking.
The deadbolt is activated inconjuction with alarm system and will prevent the door from opening even you use the internal door lever. This is the security measure of the alarm system and it will prevent somebody from entering your vehicle even if they break your window pane.
The 2 actuators is similarly applied for all 4 doors and 2 door for coupe model.

The GMS have 4 relays to switch all the 8 numbers of actuators plus another actuator for the petrol filling cover. However, due to the configuration of the 4 relays, one relay is always configured to switch all the 9 devices at the same time causing the contact to wear off prematurely. (In my opinion, this is an inherent flaw in the design).
When the contact is worn out, resistance will increase between the contact surfaces and hence will reduce the current flow to properly switch the deadbolt actuators and lock/unlock actuator.

If the deadbolt actuator fail to be released, it is impossible to open the door. You can confirm the deabolt is NOT release when you cannot open the passenger door by the internal door handle. However, the driver deadbolt actuator can be released manually by using the key.

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator to release the deadbolt.

The above is based on theory. I will try to DIY when I have the time.

Note, incase you happen to lock yourself in the car and cannot open the door from inside. Dont panic. Just wind down the window pane and open the door with your key. :stupid:

[jarance]

Whew, today everything is OK...

I am planning to retrofit another interposing relay with the power switching of all the 9 circuits. Most probably will buy a normal AUTO relay with contact rating of 20 A or more.

As the circuit is still working, i.e. contact still usable for low amp switching, it would be bette to transfer the load.

Have to check out the actual wiring schematic and do a few testing before will decide what is the best option.

Stay in touch for update.

[flash]

Lucky that you are in the same line and know about electronics. If it was me, I would have to get a new ZKE module....:sleep:


Whew, today everything is OK...

I am planning to retrofit another interposing relay with the power switching of all the 9 circuits. Most probably will buy a normal AUTO relay with contact rating of 20 A or more.

As the circuit is still working, i.e. contact still usable for low amp switching, it would be bette to transfer the load.

Have to check out the actual wiring schematic and do a few testing before will decide what is the best option.

Stay in touch for update.

[QD250]

Bro,

I also have this problem sometime with my remote. Click the remote, alarm sounds but the door does not lock / unlock. Have to press unlock / lock again before can lock / unlock with the alarm sound.

But my remote is the old one, not the diamond shape one. So how, got any advice?

Thanks

[rezzy3181]

QD beli baru aja solve the problem hahaha.

[QD250]

OIC, yes you do have a problem with the key if you can open the door with the unlock button at the gear console.

This applied for key that is diamond shape.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/E46Key.jpg

Maybe you can try this procedure to resyn your key. Thanks affan66 for the link.

Initialization Procedure.

1. Open central locking system using the car key.
2. Get into the car and close all doors.
3. Using the car key, switch the ignition lock briefly to position "1" and then switch off again. (Please do this switching within 5 seconds or otherwise the system is not ready for initialization.
4. At the remote control key. Press the "OPEN" key (->) and keep holding.
5. When holding the "OPEN" key, press the "LOCK" button three time.
6. After pressing the "LOCK" button 3 times, release the "OPEN" button.
7. If the initialization process is sucessful, the door will lock and unlock immediately to confirm the process.

Please try whether it works.

er, how to try this with the non-diamond type key??

[jarance]

Bro,

I also have this problem sometime with my remote. Click the remote, alarm sounds but the door does not lock / unlock. Have to press unlock / lock again before can lock / unlock with the alarm sound.

But my remote is the old one, not the diamond shape one. So how, got any advice?

Thanks

The diamond key is recharge when you plug it in the key slot. As your is the older version, I presummed that it is the squarish type, then your battery is old and voltage is low. Pls change the battery first and see how it goes. When the battery voltage is low, the correct signal to trigger the alarm is weak and hence your alarm will sometime work.

The older version door lock module is GM4. I dont think it have the resyn feature as the GM5 version.

[okow]

My problem is definitely the key, as one works fine and the other doesnt. Mechanic is tearing apart my diamond shaped fob, look for the battery and code...apparently mati liao. Cannot recharge.

[jarance]

My problem is definitely the key, as one works fine and the other doesnt. Mechanic is tearing apart my diamond shaped fob, look for the battery and code...apparently mati liao. Cannot recharge.

yo.. I am also still figuring how does the battery get charge when you insert it into the key slot.

Normally battery is charged by "+" and "-".. Apparently the key is only one contact point. :eek:

When your mech open the key, did you take picture? Would like to see the inside of the key. Dare not open mine cos still working..

[QD250]

thanks bro.... appreciate the feedback!

[jarance]

Lucky that you are in the same line and know about electronics. If it was me, I would have to get a new ZKE module....:sleep:

Same goes here.. I know nut about accounting and finance.. :stupid:

Everybody have their own interest but I do know some people who DIY not because of cost but to know their car better.. :wink:

Sometimes, there is no need to buy a new ZKE if it can repair with the help of the forummers advise. Afterall this is what the club is all about.. share.. share mah..:rolleyes:

[jarance]

check out this item 1..

http://static.bmwfans.info/images/epc/MTU3MTQ0X3A=.png (http://bmwfans.info/original/E46/tou/325i-M54/ECE/R/N/2004/10/mg-61/ill-61_2123/)

[QD250]

by the way, went to re-set my alarm over the weekend including changing the key's batteries....

now, everything is okay...

[jarance]

QD, glad to hear your problem is solved.

How much did you pay for the battery?

How did you reset your alarm..

[QD250]

went to the place that i installed it earlier in sg besi....

all in 350.... er, not a techie person... they did it....

[kskee]

hi guys

you might want to check out this link relating the GM5 module.

http://www.bmwgm5.com/default.htm

regards

[jarance]

hi guys

you might want to check out this link relating the GM5 module.

http://www.bmwgm5.com/default.htm

regards

kskkee, thank for the link... the link was already posted in post #10 of this thread..

Thanks for the reminder.. :rolleyes:

[kskee]

oooops......sorry about that ..... didn't notice..... :)

[jarance]

oooops......sorry about that ..... didn't notice..... :)

bro, no problem.. It good to share good information.. In fact, I think that web site is one of the most helpful site that I find that help me find out the problem with the E46 central locking.. :listen:

So how is going your with your ride? Any weird experience with the central locking with your ride.

[kskee]

yup....agreed..... a wealth of info on the web.... and thank God for forums like this....hehe

I'm driving a 1996 e39 528i ..... recently having intermittent problems with the central locking and power windows .... think mine is related to the General Module as well ....

still can't believe that BMW soldered the relays on the circuit board....damn .... I used to change the relays on my own for my earlier cars without any hassles.... if only my soldering 'kung fu' was good enough to try removing the relays from the circuit board....LOL

still looking for options on what I can do.... cos it seems to be working normally more often than not. ..... but dunno how long before i start climbing up the wall....LOL

[taggnas]

Since the weekend I have been facing a similar problem with the locks too! I can lock/unlock the doors manually but not with the key-remote system. Initially I thought the batteries died on me again and had them replaced. Bought 2 brand new Maxell 2016 batteris and still it doesn't work! I am still on manually mode. :(

Anyone has face this before? Any solutions/recommendations? Please advice.

Cheers.

[june_yap]

very useful information about central locking....
can anyone have link for E34 central locking as well?

mine after conversion, left right key can only perform lock, but cannot unlock.
only using rear boot key hole to lock and unlock.... and also when first lock will jump up, have to perform second time lock.
zzzzzzz.......
pls help.

[Iqlima]

very useful information about central locking....
can anyone have link for E34 central locking as well?

mine after conversion, left right key can only perform lock, but cannot unlock.
only using rear boot key hole to lock and unlock.... and also when first lock will jump up, have to perform second time lock.
zzzzzzz.......
pls help.

You got to open your door to see the real problem . go here to have idea how it works.

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/ go under fixes-body & interior

Last week left only one door able to operate , others 3 door not work with central lock system and here is the problem

1) Driver door - holder break
2) Passenger door - adjustment of servo.
3) Left rear door - stuck door lock mechanism

[jarance]

You got to open your door to see the real problem . go here to have idea how it works.

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/ go under fixes-body & interior

Last week left only one door able to operate , others 3 door not work with central lock system and here is the problem

1) Driver door - holder break
2) Passenger door - adjustment of servo.
3) Left rear door - stuck door lock mechanism

3 doors and 3 different type of problems.. I think the problems occurred over a span of several months.

You are lucky that the 4th door did not jam or else you will be admiring the car and not drive it.. :wink:

[jarance]

very useful information about central locking....
can anyone have link for E34 central locking as well?

mine after conversion, left right key can only perform lock, but cannot unlock.
only using rear boot key hole to lock and unlock.... and also when first lock will jump up, have to perform second time lock.
zzzzzzz.......
pls help.

what sort of conversion did you do?

If you can use the boot key to lock and unlock, your central locking module is most probably GM4 which is also similar to E36 model.

BTW, your key is the diamond shape or the squarish type.

[june_yap]

what sort of conversion did you do?

If you can use the boot key to lock and unlock, your central locking module is most probably GM4 which is also similar to E36 model.

BTW, your key is the diamond shape or the squarish type.

my key is squarish shape type...
conversion from M20 to M50B25 (all wiring changed)

so, any advice on how to solve this puzzle? :listen:

[Iqlima]

3 doors and 3 different type of problems.. I think the problems occurred over a span of several months.

You are lucky that the 4th door did not jam or else you will be admiring the car and not drive it.. :wink:

indeed, one after another door stop functioning. That's the main reason why I decide to open up to look after the problem.

[jarance]

my key is squarish shape type...
conversion from M20 to M50B25 (all wiring changed)

so, any advice on how to solve this puzzle? :listen:

Not familiar with your model or controller but can only a few tips.

1. To eliminate the problem with the keys or its battery, try to lock or unlock with spare key.

If same problem, then the key is not communicating with the central alarm module.

2. You mentioned that you did a conversion, how many module was replaced and which module.

There are about 4 to 5 modules that are interlink to each other. Some will disable/enable engine firing,
some will control gear b/box, door, boot, fuel cover and windows.

You mention that you have lock two times. It look like the deadbolt actuator is acting faster than the unlock actuator.

3. When you press the lock knob on the driver door, did all the doors lock by itself?

4. When you are in the car and all the lock knob are down, did all the door unlocked when you open the driver door?

Sorry for ask so many question as it is quite difficult to diagnose a car problem without actually seeing it.

[june_yap]

Not familiar with your model or controller but can only a few tips.

1. To eliminate the problem with the keys or its battery, try to lock or unlock with spare key.

If same problem, then the key is not communicating with the central alarm module.
=yes, spare key also act same.

2. You mentioned that you did a conversion, how many module was replaced and which module.

There are about 4 to 5 modules that are interlink to each other. Some will disable/enable engine firing,
some will control gear b/box, door, boot, fuel cover and windows.

You mention that you have lock two times. It look like the deadbolt actuator is acting faster than the unlock actuator.
=this one not yet check. cause wiring very headache. but will check after cny with mechanic.

3. When you press the lock knob on the driver door, did all the doors lock by itself?
=yes.

4. When you are in the car and all the lock knob are down, did all the door unlocked when you open the driver door?
=yes.

Sorry for ask so many question as it is quite difficult to diagnose a car problem without actually seeing it.
=no problem, thanks for doing manual diagnose for me...

[jarance]

based on your reply, check the wiring of the deadbolt actuator and the lock actuator wiring. They might be reverse.

Have the mechanic to check the wiring.. It is a tedious work and you will need to download the wiring schematic to trouble shoot it properly. Sorry, I cant help you further as I have limited experience with your model.

[525i]

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator

Jarance,

I am 99% sure that my E34 GM has failed based on your symtoms listed. Your countermeasure No. 4 is interesting as it would be the simplest/cheapest way to repair this. Have you done it? How to know which wire to bypass?

[jarance]

525i, do you have the wiring schematic for the door for E34? I think you can download it from somewhere.

For, E36, the colour is black colour.

If you dont know the color, just open your door and look for the deadbolt actuator. It located near the door handle and hiding near the edge. You will have to open the door and remove the back panel. Be careful with the clip as it tend to break easily when you put back the cover. There should be a plastic cover which is stick on by black tar like material.

[Iqlima]

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator

Jarance,

I am 99% sure that my E34 GM has failed based on your symtoms listed. Your countermeasure No. 4 is interesting as it would be the simplest/cheapest way to repair this. Have you done it? How to know which wire to bypass?

E34 and E32 share the door system, browse the E32 web if can't find E34 info. Example I gave on my previous post

[525i]

Ok, I'll give it a try and see how it goes. Is the deadbolt actuator at every door or only at the driver side? So I just remove the wires to this unit and it should be bypassed?

I took out the General Module and everyhing was nice and clean. So I can't do much there.

[june_yap]

wow, so complicated.... cant really understand la... hehe...
dont know where to start, but sounds like many solutions....

[jarance]

Ok, I'll give it a try and see how it goes. Is the deadbolt actuator at every door or only at the driver side? So I just remove the wires to this unit and it should be bypassed?

I took out the General Module and everyhing was nice and clean. So I can't do much there.

The GM module will look fine. It is the relay contact that is having the problem. i.e. worn out due to the constant switching.

I have opened my GM module yesterday and found the same condition as you. The relay is seal and cannot be open without having it to desolder from it based. I left at that as I did not have any problem with my central locking (touch wood).

Anyway, I did a few testing on the output of the module to see which circuit activated what but could not really figured its function. Anyway, it was late and did not proceed further.

Yes the deadbolt is on every doors. If the deadbolt is activated, all doors cannot be open from the inside door handle.

[jarance]

A bit update.. :listen:

1. Location of the GM5 module with the 3 cables connectors removed.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020576.jpg

2. Part Number of the module.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020578.jpg

3. External View of the Module.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020579.jpg

4. View of the cover open showing the PCB
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020581.jpg

5. View of the exposed GM5 Module card.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020582.jpg

Did some testing but only managed to find the pinout for the power windows. However, have not managed to find the pinout for the door.

BTW, the power windows circuits are shorted to negative when the motor is NOT running. One of the lead will goes to positive to open and the 2nd leads will goes to positive to closed. :wink:

[Harvey]

Bros, i have just replace the GM5 relay in penang. The w/shop charge me RM500. is that expensive?

[jarance]

Bros, i have just replace the GM5 relay in penang. The w/shop charge me RM500. is that expensive?

It is quite cheap.. BTW, do you have to resyn the key or it is just plug and play.

[Harvey]

nope. just replace relay only

[jarance]

nope. just replace relay only

Pls clarify.

Relay as in black thing on the printed circuit board or the GM5 module (PCB in the white box)

[Harvey]

i myself also not really sure. let me check with the w/shop, then will let u know..

[mbm8800]

gud day all..

i was having d same prob few month back... unfortunately, i have 2 change the whole central locking device ( it's cum 2gether wit the hazard switch ) coz it's totally kaput resulted from d spillage of my sons susu!!:eek::eek: and it cost me less than RM300 if i'm not mistaken.. not sure lorh coz my wife yang anta to the bengkel...:wink::wink:

cheerss...

[zammie]

Ok guys, now it's my turn to have this problem! :(

First time (last weekend), I could open the door on second attempt. Second time (on Tue night), it took several minutes for me to get the door open. Right now the doors refuse to open no matter how many times I'm trying!!

Here are the symptoms as I can see them now:

1) Press open, driver door does not unlock. Slight click only, and the lights come on
2) Press open again, other doors do not open too
3) Can open the boot as per normal
4) Can open and close all windows by holding the 'open' and 'lock' buttons
5) After opening the window this way, I still can't open the door via the door handle
6) Car seems to 'lock' as per normal after trying step 1 & 2: Cabin lights go out, side indicators light up once. Button next to ASC switch flashes 10 times quickly then resumes a slow steady pattern.

Jarance, can help diagnose my car before I send it to the workshop? Thanks bro!!

[jarance]

Did some research and found out that the problem with central locking is mainly due to the following:-

1. Actuator for the door lock/unlock.
2. Dead Bolt Actuator
3. Loose connection
4. GM5 or GMV or ZKE5 (depending on which country you are from)

Symthom of GM5 module problem :-
1. Mostly can lock but intermittently cannot unlock.
2. Need to use key to manually open the door on driver side.
3. Passenger door and rear door cannot be open by the inside door handle.
4. Internal "LOCK" push button on gearshift console also cannot open all doors.
5. Sound of "click" of the door trying to open but cannot open when the internal "LOCK" push button is activate.

If you have ALL of the aboves, then your problem is 99% GM5 module.

The BMW locking system basically consist of 2 actuators.
One actuator is for the lock/unlock function and the other actuator is for the deadbolt locking.
The deadbolt is activated inconjuction with alarm system and will prevent the door from opening even you use the internal door lever. This is the security measure of the alarm system and it will prevent somebody from entering your vehicle even if they break your window pane.
The 2 actuators is similarly applied for all 4 doors and 2 door for coupe model.

The GMS have 4 relays to switch all the 8 numbers of actuators plus another actuator for the petrol filling cover. However, due to the configuration of the 4 relays, one relay is always configured to switch all the 9 devices at the same time causing the contact to wear off prematurely. (In my opinion, this is an inherent flaw in the design).
When the contact is worn out, resistance will increase between the contact surfaces and hence will reduce the current flow to properly switch the deadbolt actuators and lock/unlock actuator.

If the deadbolt actuator fail to be released, it is impossible to open the door. You can confirm the deabolt is NOT release when you cannot open the passenger door by the internal door handle. However, the driver deadbolt actuator can be released manually by using the key.

Countermeasure.
1. Change the GM5 module (Best solution and most expensive)
2. Replace the affected relay (DIY but difficult to buy the relay as it is specially made)
3. Clean the relay contact (DIY but will only as long the contact surface is clean)
4. Disable the deadbolt actuator by removing the wire to this actuator at the GM5 module. This will still enable the door to be lock and unlock but will not prevent somebody from entering the vehicle.
5. Insert a emergency switch to bypass or switch on the deadbolt actuator to release the deadbolt.

The above is based on theory. I will try to DIY when I have the time.

Note, incase you happen to lock yourself in the car and cannot open the door from inside. Dont panic. Just wind down the window pane and open the door with your key.

[jarance]

Ok guys, now it's my turn to have this problem! :(

First time (last weekend), I could open the door on second attempt. Second time (on Tue night), it took several minutes for me to get the door open. Right now the doors refuse to open no matter how many times I'm trying!!

Here are the symptoms as I can see them now:

1) Press open, driver door does not unlock. Slight click only, and the lights come on
2) Press open again, other doors do not open too
3) Can open the boot as per normal
4) Can open and close all windows by holding the 'open' and 'lock' buttons
5) After opening the window this way, I still can't open the door via the door handle
6) Car seems to 'lock' as per normal after trying step 1 & 2: Cabin lights go out, side indicators light up once. Button next to ASC switch flashes 10 times quickly then resumes a slow steady pattern.

Jarance, can help diagnose my car before I send it to the workshop? Thanks bro!!

It the GM5 module..

[zulkifli]

It the GM5 module..

Try install voltage stabilizer.....its work for me

[jarance]

Try install voltage stabilizer.....its work for me

bro, how can installing a voltage stabilizer resolve the central locking problem?

A voltage stabilizer works in stabilizing voltage from the alternator when the engine is running.


When you want to open your door, I dont think your engine is running.

[kby*88*]

here is my symptom

1. I need to manually lock my car using key. If i use the remote, sometime the alarm will triggered on its own. however, i can unlock my car using the remote
2. sometime, when i use the "LOCK" button to unlock all 4 doors, it will do nothing and got some "click" sound. Pres 2,3 time then ok
3. sometime when i unlock my car using the remote, all 4 doors will be unlocked...but most of the time press 1 time, only drivers side will unlock, press 2nd the remaining will unlock.

any idea?

[jarance]

here is my symptom

1. I need to manually lock my car using key. If i use the remote, sometime the alarm will triggered on its own. however, i can unlock my car using the remote
If you have to use your key to lock without triggering the alarm, then there is possibility that one of the "door lock sensor" or "boot lock sensor" is NOT giving the lock signal to the GM5 module that it is locked. Manually locking the doors via the key does not activate the alarm.


2. sometime, when i use the "LOCK" button to unlock all 4 doors, it will do nothing and got some "click" sound. Pres 2,3 time then ok.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.

3. sometime when i unlock my car using the remote, all 4 doors will be unlocked...but most of the time press 1 time, only drivers side will unlock, press 2nd the remaining will unlock.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.


Try to resyn your key. Unfortunately, the battery have to be changed if it is not charging properly. To confirm that it is your key problem rather than the GM5 module, try to use your SPARE key after you have charge it.

any idea?

Reply in blue

[kby*88*]

Reply in blue

thanks jarance for ur reply

1. I need to manually lock my car using key. If i use the remote, sometime the alarm will triggered on its own. however, i can unlock my car using the remote
If you have to use your key to lock without triggering the alarm, then there is possibility that one of the "door lock sensor" or "boot lock sensor" is NOT giving the lock signal to the GM5 module that it is locked. Manually locking the doors via the key does not activate the alarm.
--if the alarm trigger, usually it will be a few minutes after i locked the car, not immediately after i lock the car. and sometime when park the car by the road side, if got any car, lorry passing by, then it will trigger


2. sometime, when i use the "LOCK" button to unlock all 4 doors, it will do nothing and got some "click" sound. Pres 2,3 time then ok.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.
-FYI, the "lock" button that i'm reffering to is the one at the gear console...

3. sometime when i unlock my car using the remote, all 4 doors will be unlocked...but most of the time press 1 time, only drivers side will unlock, press 2nd the remaining will unlock.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.


Try to resyn your key. Unfortunately, the battery have to be changed if it is not charging properly. To confirm that it is your key problem rather than the GM5 module, try to use your SPARE key after you have charge it.


i did sync my key for few times d. when ever after sync, it works perfect. however, after few days, then it will become pening back,he

will try to start using my spare key n see...


any idea?

[jarance]

1. I need to manually lock my car using key. If i use the remote, sometime the alarm will triggered on its own. however, i can unlock my car using the remote
If you have to use your key to lock without triggering the alarm, then there is possibility that one of the "door lock sensor" or "boot lock sensor" is NOT giving the lock signal to the GM5 module that it is locked. Manually locking the doors via the key does not activate the alarm.

--if the alarm trigger, usually it will be a few minutes after i locked the car, not immediately after i lock the car. and sometime when park the car by the road side, if got any car, lorry passing by, then it will trigger
Your car may have shock or proximity sensor. It might be too sensitive. I know mine have cos I also got the alarm trigger once when I was working outside and near the car when the alarm was armed.

2. sometime, when i use the "LOCK" button to unlock all 4 doors, it will do nothing and got some "click" sound. Pres 2,3 time then ok.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.

-FYI, the "lock" button that i'm reffering to is the one at the gear console...
OIC, In that case, you have open the door manually when you have problem opening your car earlier via your remote. The GM5 module did not release the deadbolt lock. Hence you cannot open your door from the inside "OPEN/LOCK" button near the gear console. You will need to pull the door handle twice in order to open your door. If I am not mistaken, only your door can be open and NOT the passenger door. Please see post #61. item 3 & 4.
A bit embarrassing when people have to climb out the driver side to get in/out.


3. sometime when i unlock my car using the remote, all 4 doors will be unlocked...but most of the time press 1 time, only drivers side will unlock, press 2nd the remaining will unlock.
This problem could be due to the remote key not properly sync to your GM5 module or your battery is not charging properly.

Try to resyn your key. Unfortunately, the battery have to be changed if it is not charging properly. To confirm that it is your key problem rather than the GM5 module, try to use your SPARE key after you have charge it.


i did sync my key for few times d. when ever after sync, it works perfect. however, after few days, then it will become pening back,he

will try to start using my spare key n see...

[zulkifli]

bro, how can installing a voltage stabilizer resolve the central locking problem?

A voltage stabilizer works in stabilizing voltage from the alternator when the engine is running.


When you want to open your door, I dont think your engine is running.

If I remove my VS, after 2 days my central lock kaput. When reinstall back, drive about 40km then my central lock back to normal. I try this few times.....it work

[jarance]

If I remove my VS, after 2 days my central lock kaput. When reinstall back, drive about 40km then my central lock back to normal. I try this few times.....it work

Thanks for clarifying.

So what you are saying is that so far you do not have any problem after the VS was installed..

[zulkifli]

Yes....already 1 year without problem.

[jarance]

Yes....already 1 year without problem.

OK.. If it works for you then I suppose the solution might works for others..

[jarance]

Bro,

I'm having the same problem. Some time can sometime cannot especially on hot wheather. Can unlock using the button near handbrake. Sometimes cant even manually unlock at the inner door handle. Send for diagnostic & shows general module fault. Check out the price bout RM1500:thefinger:

Unker is it the same one? Located behind the glovebox. err mine old E46 oni

Yes, when I have the same problem as you. i.e. sometime can sometime cannot. The intermittent problem seem to happen more often when it was under the hot sun for a while.

read thru the thread from the beginning till the end. It will give you an idea what your problem is.

If the GM5 module is faulty, it should not intermittent. Electronic module either work or they dont. if they fail, they will remain fail. It will not self recovered. I dont think BMW have nano technology that can self heal.

Suggest that you remove the module first and try to clean the contact at the module and the connectors with a contact cleaner. Endure that the connectors are inserted properly back to the module.

[initialM]

Unker Jarance,

Ur really DIY King. My problem & sympthom is exactly like yours. I also notice it will happen if park under hot sun too. Already asked my mech to take out the module & spray wt cleaner. So far so good. What is yr opinion on the VS solution?
So you changed the module?

[initialM]

Anybody experience some problem with E46 central locking:-


1. Cannot open the all the doors by the internal "Open Door" push button.

2. Cannot open the driver door by the remote control. However, the windows opens when continuously press the "->" (or unlock button on the remote control).

3. Can lock all doors when the remote "lock" button or "internal push button" is pressed.
Can also open the rear boot when the remote "boot" PB is pressed.

4. When press the "internal open door", there was a slight click but the door did not open.

5. When press the lock key on remote, the door cannot be open from inside lever. Got me worried :eek: for a while as could not get out of the car. Luckily can open the window and use key to manually unlock the door.:wink:


My problem is exactly the same. Maybe the gremlins has run away from yr car & come to my car. Damn. :burnout::thefinger:

[initialM]

If the GM5 module is faulty, it should not intermittent. Electronic module either work or they dont. if they fail, they will remain fail. It will not self recovered. I dont think BMW have nano technology that can self heal.

Suggest that you remove the module first and try to clean the contact at the module and the connectors with a contact cleaner. Endure that the connectors are inserted properly back to the module.

Diagnostic result shows the General Module faulty but yr idea on electronic intermittent is correct oso. By the way can u show the exact pics of the connectors that need to be cleaned?

[jarance]

Unker Jarance,

Ur really DIY King. My problem & sympthom is exactly like yours. I also notice it will happen if park under hot sun too. Already asked my mech to take out the module & spray wt cleaner. So far so good. What is yr opinion on the VS solution?
So you changed the module?

I have my reservation about the VS solution but for one of the forummer it seem to work for him. VS works by stabilizing voltage from the alternator and also filter "noise" generated from it.

You sometime cannot open the door when your car is STOP so I cannot see the function of the VS when the alternator is not generating any voltage to charge the battery.

Nope, my module is still original. I did not change it cos the gremlin have gone away after I mandi the car with bunga wangi.:rock:

Seriously, I just clean the connectors.

[jarance]

Diagnostic result shows the General Module faulty but yr idea on electronic intermittent is correct oso. By the way can u show the exact pics of the connectors that need to be cleaned?

I didnt know the GM5 module is that intelligent to be able to generate a fault code. Guess I have to do some R&D about it again. :wink:

Will post some picture on Monday cos now on slow bandwidth

[jarance]

Diagnostic result shows the General Module faulty but yr idea on electronic intermittent is correct oso. By the way can u show the exact pics of the connectors that need to be cleaned?

Here is a picture of the module with the connector disconnect.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020576.jpg


View of the connector at the back. The one with multiple pin is for the door lock. The one with thicker pin is for the power window.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020582.jpg

[jarance]

Here is how to remove the connectors.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/E46%20Alarm/GM5moduleconnector.jpg

[initialM]

Unker,

After cleaned the connector, the gremlin still persists on my car. I think the culprit hangs on the relay which coz problem of unlock. Maybe still need to change the GM5. Damn:thefinger:

[jarance]

Unker,

After cleaned the connector, the gremlin still persists on my car. I think the culprit hangs on the relay which coz problem of unlock. Maybe still need to change the GM5. Damn:thefinger:

If you suspect it the relay that have worn out contacts, why dont you consider to sent it to UK for repair.

[initialM]

If you suspect it the relay that have worn out contacts, why dont you consider to sent it to UK for repair.

Aiyah very troublesome & with the cost I better buy brand new one.
I think I need you to mandi bunga my car lar:burnout:

[jarance]

Aiyah very troublesome & with the cost I better buy brand new one.
I think I need you to mandi bunga my car lar:burnout:

Maybe, I can start a business repairing GM5 module in my spare time. I have all the tools. Just need to buy the special relay from UK (two coils in one) or modify two relays and rewired it outside.

[jarance]

Aiyah very troublesome & with the cost I better buy brand new one.
I think I need you to mandi bunga my car lar:burnout:

Oh yeah, I just realize that buying a new module is not the only cost that you have to consider. You might need to pay extra to recode the GM5 to accept your old keys.

Wonder how much is the recode cost in Malaysia.:motz:

[astroboy]

Jarance! Buy everything! :thefinger:

[jarance]

Jarance! Buy everything! :thefinger:

hello friend! What is everything? You think I vely rich like you. :thefinger:

[hakim_radzuan]

Unker,

After cleaned the connector, the gremlin still persists on my car. I think the culprit hangs on the relay which coz problem of unlock. Maybe still need to change the GM5. Damn:thefinger:

Mine cannot unlock last few feeks. Even passenger door also cant opem from inside. When diagnose witg gt1,confirm gm5 kaput..new one cost rm1700 without recode. But thank god i found an used unit from stuggart taman mayang. RM650 plus rm150 for recode...pheww problem solve.

[initialM]

Mine cannot unlock last few feeks. Even passenger door also cant opem from inside. When diagnose witg gt1,confirm gm5 kaput..new one cost rm1700 without recode. But thank god i found an used unit from stuggart taman mayang. RM650 plus rm150 for recode...pheww problem solve.

Been contemplating to get used one at the same price but worry on the durability (especially the relay). In SG GM5 cost bout RM1400 uncoded.

Unker Jarance,

Since the problem is the relay, I need yr advice on what to do. My mech advice to buy new but already cannot tahan. Every month spent thousands of RM on this pampered BMW. My piggybank getting low:burnout:

[jarance]

I have checked the www and found the following info from bmwgm5.com about the fault.

Copy from that page the fault and code.

ZKE 2 (0x02) - Fuse for ZV
ZKE 7 (0x07) - Module not coded {Signal STDWA (only relevant if an anti-theft alarm is fitted)
ZKE 9 (0x09) - Front Window Relay Left Side (Drivers Side)
ZKE 10 (0x0A) - Front Window Relay Right Side (Passenger Side)
ZKE 39 (0x27) - Central Locking Relays, Driver Door Unlocking (R2bNC)
ZKE 40 (0x28) - Central Locking Relays, Passenger Door Locking (R1aNO)
ZKE 41 (0x29) - Central Locking Relays, Driver & Passenger Door Unlocking {Relay for central locking - ulocking or Relay for rear FH drive (passenger's side) sticks} (R1bNO)
ZKE 42 (0x2A) - Relay for central locking, double locking
ZKE 43 (0x2B) - Central Locking Relays, Driver Door Locking (R2bNO)
ZKE 48 (0x30) - Wire to relay module -passenger's side FH, rear
ZKE 51 (0x33) - Wipers: blocking protection active
ZKE 61 (0x3D) - Fuse for passenger- compartment sensor
ZKE 66 (0x42) - Connection for relay module to power window driver side front faulty
ZKE (0x81) - DWA alarm memory: door contact, driver's door
ZKE (0x85) - DWA alarm memory: tailgate
ZKE (0x88) - DWA alarm memory: hood

Based on the fault code, it look like you dont need to replace the GM5 but only the appropriate item that is giving the problem.

[jarance]

Been contemplating to get used one at the same price but worry on the durability (especially the relay). In SG GM5 cost bout RM1400 uncoded.

Unker Jarance,

Since the problem is the relay, I need yr advice on what to do. My mech advice to buy new but already cannot tahan. Every month spent thousands of RM on this pampered BMW. My piggybank getting low:burnout:

I help save a bit lah.. You buy the relay and I do the work for you (FOC) cos you will be my first customer.

[jarance]

Mine cannot unlock last few feeks. Even passenger door also cant opem from inside. When diagnose witg gt1,confirm gm5 kaput..new one cost rm1700 without recode. But thank god i found an used unit from stuggart taman mayang. RM650 plus rm150 for recode...pheww problem solve.

HR, do you have the old unit with you. maybe I can salvage some parts from it. :burnout:

RM150 is reasonable for the recoding.

BTW, what was the fault code when check with GT1 diagnostic tools.

[jarance]

I think I know how to solve the problem.

Based on the info from bmwgm5.com, the problem is due one relay taking all the load which cause the contact to wear prematurely.

Solution is to distribute the load with another relay located outside the module.

In order to prove my theory, I need a volunteer who have GM5 module problem for me to experiment.

The job involve cutting 8 nos of wires and wired to the new relay.

Cost of relay shall 5 amp rating but shall have 4poles to share the load of the 8 motors (actuator). Previously one contact (20 Amp rated) take the load of 8 actuator. The surge current cause the contact to wear off. if the load are distributed over 4 contacts, the wear is less. Furthermore, if one contact wear off, only one door is affected rather than 4 doors at the same time.

IM, so planning to spend RM800 or RM100 for OM or RM200 for non OM (my cost).

[initialM]

Unker J,

Decided to follow yr advice to mandi bunga my car. The gremlins seems to go away.
Tested few times parked in hot sun, no problem at all.:rock:
Hope it stays that way. Thank god for saving me a fortune:smokin:

[jarance]

Unker J,

Decided to follow yr advice to mandi bunga my car. The gremlins seems to go away.
Tested few times parked in hot sun, no problem at all.:rock:
Hope it stays that way. Thank god for saving me a fortune:smokin:

Ha ha.. This is the first time my special idea works..:cool:

Wonder whose car the gremlins will go to? :smokin: :burnout:

[initialM]

They will go back to yr car hahahaha.

Actually I did the "thingy" as your advice & it works so far hehehe

[jarance]

They will go back to yr car hahahaha.

Actually I did thingy as your advice & it works so far hehehe

Active shield - set ON maximum mode. :cool:
Air Wangi - Set on mid spray. :wink:
Anti gremlin - Set on maximum mode. :cool:

sshhh.. dont tell everybody about the thingy.. It is my secret. I only tell it to my friends. :rock:

[jarance]

No volunteer for the testing?

[initialM]

No volunteer for the testing?

Unker J,

I want to volunteer lar. The gremlin comin back ler. Damn:smokin:

[jarance]

Unker J,

I want to volunteer lar. The gremlin comin back ler. Damn:smokin:

So when are you down in KL area..:smokin:

[jarance]

OK here is a picture of what going into your car. It a plug-in relay come with base. That way if the relay contact is worn out, you just change the relay without having to do any soldering..
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/E46%20Alarm/relaywithbase.jpg

I will not shocked you with the wires that I am going to cut... snip snip.. no for the faint hearted.

[jarance]

I got a faulty GM5 module that was pass to me for repair.

After "playing" with it, i.e. cleaning, soldering terminals etc, I tried on my car. Well the problem seem to be solved for a few days. However, after a few days testing, the door refuse to open.. (!@#$%^&*) bloody GM5 module failed again. So back to square ONE.

Anyway, I decided to modify the circuit since the owner have given permission to do anything to get it work again.

I have modified it by adding another miniature power relay. Well guess what... It works!!!

Now the modified unit is still under testing for a week. so far so good. (Under hot sun, raining or any condition). I will continue to test it for 2 more weeks before I decide.

The beauty is, the repair cost is less than RM60 for material.. (if it work)

[Ade]

View of the connector at the back. The one with multiple pin is for the door lock. The one with thicker pin is for the power window.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/BMW%20Club/ResizeofP1020582.jpg

The TYCO relay gremlin. I've helped my mechanic to actually source alot of those relays previously. I might have a few lying around somewhere in my home or office. If anybody needs them, do PM me. Can't guarantee I will be able to find them but I'll try.

[jarance]

Ade, if you can get the tyco relay model no: V23084-C2001-A303.

Please do let me know the price and delivery date.

[Ade]

How many you need? I will need to check.

[jarance]

How many you need? I will need to check.

I need 3 pcs for the moment. :listen:

[jarance]

week 2.. so far so good.. will be taking out by the end of week to return back to owner.

[scottjoh]

The V23084-C2001-A303 relays and other relays, like the ones for the front windows, V23078-C1002-A303, are available from the web site mentioned in post #10 back in Jan '09. Cost of the relays plus shipping to Malaysia are reasonable.

[jarance]

The TYCO relay gremlin. I've helped my mechanic to actually source alot of those relays previously. I might have a few lying around somewhere in my home or office. If anybody needs them, do PM me. Can't guarantee I will be able to find them but I'll try.


The V23084-C2001-A303 relays and other relays, like the ones for the front windows, V23078-C1002-A303, are available from the web site mentioned in post #10 back in Jan '09. Cost of the relays plus shipping to Malaysia are reasonable.

Thanks scott for the info.

It is a honor to have the author of http://www.bmwgm5.com to grace our forum. I have learn a lot from your information. Keep up the good work. :top:

[jarance]

week 4.. so far it have NOT give any problem. The extra relay added to circuit board help in keeping the module working.

Just remove the modified module from my car and install back my original GM5 module. After installing the original module, my key could not open/close the door. A quick re-syn procedure was performed and everything was back to normal again.

I think I have crack the code..

[Alex5522]

week 4.. so far it have NOT give any problem. The extra relay added to circuit board help in keeping the module working.

Just remove the modified module from my car and install back my original GM5 module. After installing the original module, my key could not open/close the door. A quick re-syn procedure was performed and everything was back to normal again.

I think I have crack the code..

Bro

U are the MAN really..

[jarance]

My circuit of the central locking. It is slightly different from the info from bmwgm5.com. basically it is the same except the fuel filler circuit.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/E46%20Parts/gm5wiring.jpg

[sachseelan]

mine has started acting up lately ... sigh

[ICEMAN 13]

join us and become official members with a mere rm300 ...

lotsa attractive OM members are waiting to welcome you guys ...

the info from our DIY guru@JARANCE is even worth more that rm3K .....

[jarance]

mine has started acting up lately ... sigh

sach, what your problem.. E36 seldom have GM4 module problem.

[sachseelan]

hi jarance, first front passenger wont follow central lock. A few days later alarm totally dead. Have to use key now. With key only 3 other doors lock/unlock together.

[jarance]

hi jarance, first front passenger wont follow central lock. A few days later alarm totally dead. Have to use key now. With key only 3 other doors lock/unlock together.

bro, your front passenger actuator is faulty. get it change first since the other doors are working.

see item 1 & 2

<a href="http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Sedan/Malaysia/318i-M43/RHD/A/1996/browse/bodywork/central_locking_system/" target="_blank"><img src="http://static.bmwfans.info/images/epc/NTQxNF9w.png" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/">BMW parts catalog</a>

[jarance]

This how when the doors are locked.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/E46%20Parts/gm5wiringclose.jpg

[perryyip73]

OMG, our sifu really go deep into this. Really experienced with all the technical graph. Jarance, i searched on net found that for CI, 323 and 325 is not much different.

323ci
170bhp, 0-60mph 8.9s, 1430kg

325ci
189bhp, 0-60mph 8.0s, 1485kg

Why there are still people buying 323ci :D but paying same roadtax as 325. Features ? Oh yeah, i was mentioned the 325ci msport without the Multi Function on the steering. Can it replace with M/F and work ?

[Alex5522]

A bit dif as what i found out :

Model : 323ci / 325ci EUR
Engine : M52TUB25 1998-2000 - M54TUB25 2001-2007
Cc : 2494 / 2494
Power : 170 PS / 125kW;168bhp - 195 PS/ 143kW,192bhp
Torque : 245 N-m / 245 N-m
Speed : 8.0 sec / 7.2 sec
0-100km
0-62mph

[perryyip73]

Thanks, alex. Now temporary the 325ci msport is my main choice, 2nd choice only 323ci.

[Alex5522]

Any one can refer to web as below for ref :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_(E46)#Petrol_engines

Ya Perry i did pm u already this page few days ago.

[sachseelan]

thanks jarance

will need to go see doctor, my 36 long time no sick ... Its about time.

Cheers

[scottjoh]

My circuit of the central locking. It is slightly different from the info from bmwgm5.com. basically it is the same except the fuel filler circuit.

Yeah, I'm aware of the fuel flap lock error on my web site regarding how the GM5 door lock relays operate the actuators.
http://www.bmwgm5.com/Door_lock_schematic.htm

I am looking for my original CAD files so I can make the corrections and also add the locking glove box which is only on convertibles. I should have my schematics updated by the end of the month (8/31/2010)

Scott J.
I have all the relays available for the GM3, GM4, GM5, RM1, RMIV, EMSIII and many other BMW modules.

[jarance]

Yeah, I'm aware of the fuel flap lock error on my web site regarding how the GM5 door lock relays operate the actuators.
http://www.bmwgm5.com/Door_lock_schematic.htm

I am looking for my original CAD files so I can make the corrections and also add the locking glove box which is only on convertibles. I should have my schematics updated by the end of the month (8/31/2010)

Scott J.
I have all the relays available for the GM3, GM4, GM5, RM1, RMIV, EMSIII and many other BMW modules.

Thanks Scott for the head up. One thing for sure that your web site is the source where I found my solution. Without it, I would not dare to open the GM5 module and investigate it. :listen:

It is a pity not many of us in Malaysia are into DIY. Most of us rather change the module when it is faulty. Your solution have help many of us BMW owner to save some money. :o

cheers. Once again thank you for your knowledge. :top:

p/s Pertaining to your project to do solid state switching, you might face a problem because the current need to flow both ways. Volt free contact is still the best option.

[aidilj]

Jarance,

My take on the not many DIYers in Malaysia. Its due to culture and population.

We here are spoilt/spoiled with cheap labor while in the US for example labor are charged to the hour and it is expensive. This is true for both dealers and indy workshop. So instead of paying the shop you might as well do it yourself since it is managable with the right tools. So kids grow up seeing dads working on their machines, tools laying around and accessible (cheap and easy to source) parts. Kids grow up helping and learning to become DIYers themself. They even have garage rental if you require lifts for the work. So I think the society is somewhat driven to DIY.

Given the same percentage of people DIY over there and here. Smaller country means less DIYers.

Cheers

Now back to central locking

[initialM]

Unker J,

If I dont buy new one I can be trapped in my car worr.
Anyway my refurbished GM5 module is up for sale cheaper than used one.
Anyone interested let me know ya.

[jarance]

Unker J,

If I dont buy new one I can be trapped in my car worr.
Anyway my refurbished GM5 module is up for sale cheaper than used one.
Anyone interested let me know ya.

IM, the driver can never be trapped in the car. The fuses for the power window and the door are different fuses.

when you reach a certain speed, all doors will automatically locked when reach certain speed. However, this feature can be disable by re-programming the module. Even if the door is automatically locked when reach certain speed, the dead-bolt will not be activated. That means you can still open the door by pulling the lever twice if the console open/close does not work.

Worst case scenario (if you are trapped inside) is that you still wind down the window and open the door with the key. Only problem is that all the passenger have to go out from the driver side. :stupid:

btw, got commission if I help you to sell your GM5 module. :listen:

[initialM]

IM, the driver can never be trapped in the car. The fuses for the power window and the door are different fuses.

when you reach a certain speed, all doors will automatically locked when reach certain speed. However, this feature can be disable by re-programming the module. Even if the door is automatically locked when reach certain speed, the dead-bolt will not be activated. That means you can still open the door by pulling the lever twice if the console open/close does not work.

Worst case scenario (if you are trapped inside) is that you still wind down the window and open the door with the key. Only problem is that all the passenger have to go out from the driver side. :stupid:

btw, got commission if I help you to sell your GM5 module. :listen:

What I meant was what if got hot chicks inside I'll definitely trapped!
I'll be comin to kl again next week fri. Let me know if you want me to bring the GM5.
For you 1 jug on me:listen:

[perryyip73]

WAKAKAKAKAK jarance :D, i never heard some1 will trapped in his car, only thing i heard is car will autolock. Anyway just a joke :D :D :D

[jarance]

Ha.. ha.. bro, if you pay me extra, I rigged your car so that the hot chicks will be automatically trapped in your car until you are done with them.

Keep the module with you. I will direct them to you if they ask for one.

[scottjoh]

Thanks Scott for the head up. One thing for sure that your web site is the source where I found my solution. Without it, I would not dare to open the GM5 module and investigate it. :listen:

It is a pity not many of us in Malaysia are into DIY. Most of us rather change the module when it is faulty. Your solution have help many of us BMW owner to save some money. :o

cheers. Once again thank you for your knowledge. :top:

p/s Pertaining to your project to do solid state switching, you might face a problem because the current need to flow both ways. Volt free contact is still the best option.

Regarding the solid state relay project. http://www.bmwgm5.com/SolidStateRelays.htm Yes, I know current flows in both directions. I'm not an idiot. The MOSFETs are arranged in an H-Bridge configuration with each of my modules forming one side of the H-Bridge. The 2nd line of my project page says I got it working 14 months ago. Not a difficult project.

The problem with relays, as you probably already know, is the relays wear out and go bad! A solid state solution is far more reliable and won't wear out. BMW uses a solid state circuit to drive the front door lock actuators on the E38 (7-series) and E39 (5-series). While the 5 and 7 get more reliable and more expensive solid state circuits we get crappy relays. Do you know how many V23084 relays I've replaced, A LOT.
http://www.bmwgm5.com/Images/Relay_Pile.jpg
Know how many E38/E39 modules I've worked on with door lock problems? 0.

[jarance]

woh, there is a lot relays..

curious to know what would the cost would be for SSR retrofit as compare to conventional relay?

btw, can you advise the circuit for the SSR? I am now considering it as a project.

[aidilj]

Scott,

Super website. I've read through your site and now am educated and well prepared for this issue. I thought BMW would use some magic in its circuitry, seems not, just relays. I think the hard part in the solid state relay would be the current handling, 15Amps is huge. How long would these relays be energized at a time typically? Do you find any reason why the front window relays are larger than the rear ones?

Liking your IBUS project.

Jarance,

We should stock some of these relays locally if it fail so frequently. And get some of Scott's 4-layer silkscreen SSR board for experiment. This would help others in need.

Cheers

[jarance]

Scott,

Super website. I've read through your site and now am educated and well prepared for this issue. I thought BMW would use some magic in its circuitry, seems not, just relays. I think the hard part in the solid state relay would be the current handling, 15Amps is huge. How long would these relays be energized at a time typically? Do you find any reason why the front window relays are larger than the rear ones?

Liking your IBUS project.

Jarance,

We should stock some of these relays locally if it fail so frequently. And get some of Scott's 4-layer silkscreen SSR board for experiment. This would help others in need.

Cheers

I would recommend that you buy the relay from scott when you need them. You can buy from him either direct or thru ebay. Direct is cheaper cos he dont have to pay some commission to ebay.
scott is selling them at a reasonable price for US$15 each and extra US$6 for postal outside USA.

I do this just for fun and to have more knowledge about our ride. Most people who know me will know that I dont charge a single cent when I help them with their problem. There is nothing wrong also to charge people a small fee for giving an alternative solution. It is cheaper than replacing the whole module. (You dont change tyre when you have a puncture)

btw aidil, you also another DIYer? :listen: So you also like the I-Bus as well.. We need to persuade scott to talk more about it on his web site..

Do you know anything about modbus protocol. I have been playing with them for years. Wonder whether they have any similarity to I-Bus and K-Bus protocol?

[aidilj]

I would recommend that you buy the relay from scott when you need them. You can buy from him either direct or thru ebay. Direct is cheaper cos he dont have to pay some commission to ebay.
scott is selling them at a reasonable price for US$15 each and extra US$6 for postal outside USA.

I do this just for fun and to have more knowledge about our ride. Most people who know me will know that I dont charge a single cent when I help them with their problem. There is nothing wrong also to charge people a small fee for giving an alternative solution. It is cheaper than replacing the whole module. (You dont change tyre when you have a puncture)

btw aidil, you also another DIYer? :listen: So you also like the I-Bus as well.. We need to persuade scott to talk more about it on his web site..

Do you know anything about modbus protocol. I have been playing with them for years. Wonder whether they have any similarity to I-Bus and K-Bus protocol?

Local stock means faster turnaround, shipping from US even with First Class USPS will take at least a week. If I were to experience this, I would take the relay to a local electronic shop first just because of the quick turnaround to get it fixed.

You can say that I am another DIYer, mostly electronics since I'm very comfortable with it and treat it as my hobby. Check out my site to see some of my past works. I have another DIY coming through.

No I'm not familiar with modbus. But I see IBUS as just another protocol and can be learned. If I would stumble upon this page earlier, I won't be spending $150 on the DICE kit. :76:

[jarance]

Local stock means faster turnaround, shipping from US even with First Class USPS will take at least a week. If I were to experience this, I would take the relay to a local electronic shop first just because of the quick turnaround to get it fixed.

You can say that I am another DIYer, mostly electronics since I'm very comfortable with it and treat it as my hobby. Check out my site to see some of my past works. I have another DIY coming through.

No I'm not familiar with modbus. But I see IBUS as just another protocol and can be learned. If I would stumble upon this page earlier, I won't be spending $150 on the DICE kit. :76:

bro, where is the link to your website?

[aidilj]

Here they are

http://www.aidilj.com/homemadecpu

http://www.aidilj.com/sigmo

Ignore the author looks please, those are horrible times :thumpdown:

[jarance]

Here they are

http://www.aidilj.com/homemadecpu

http://www.aidilj.com/sigmo

Ignore the author looks please, those are horrible times :thumpdown:

cool man.. you are in robotic. my kid is also in robotic.

saw the video. ha..ha.. it really walk. remind me of MJ's "moon walk" when it goes backward.. :top:

If you have the budget like Honda group, you might get it to work better than Asimo. :listen:

[aidilj]

cool man.. you are in robotic. my kid is also in robotic.

saw the video. ha..ha.. it really walk. remind me of MJ's "moon walk" when it goes backward.. :top:

If you have the budget like Honda group, you might get it to work better than Asimo. :listen:

Haha that's the inspiration, ask yourself when looking at others, how hard can it be?

[scottjoh]

woh, there is a lot relays..

curious to know what would the cost would be for SSR retrofit as compare to conventional relay?

btw, can you advise the circuit for the SSR? I am now considering it as a project.

For more info on H-Bridges take a look at Wikipedia.org http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H-bridge
Also take a look at the L298 IC from ST Micro (formally SGS Thompson). I think this is the chip that the E39 uses in the PM-BT module for the door locks. Here is my web page for the PM-BT module http://www.bmwgm5.com/PM-BT.htm That chip is not suitable to replace the V23084 relays in the GM5 however. The current rating is too low to handle all the motors paralleled in our cars, especially 4-door ones.


Super website. I've read through your site and now am educated and well prepared for this issue. I thought BMW would use some magic in its circuitry, seems not, just relays. I think the hard part in the solid state relay would be the current handling, 15Amps is huge. How long would these relays be energized at a time typically? Do you find any reason why the front window relays are larger than the rear ones?

Thanks. Nope, our E46's get crappy relays. I'm not sure what the E9x series has. They have worst problems with door locks, but, their problem is the crappy actuators. Not sure if they use relays or solid state to drive them. Signals come from "Junction Box Electronics" No longer called a General Module or Central Body Electronics.

The front window relays are a lot beefier than the door locks since the window relays need to do a lot of heavy lifting. Like those huge coupe windows. And the higher duty cycle. Window relays can stay on for almost 10 seconds to close a completely open window.

Yeah, 15 Amps is a lot, but, the duty cycle is small and if you get a good low on resistance MOSFETs the power dissipation is reasonable. For example, take the Infineon ID90N035S4L-02 MOSFET. It has an on resistance of 2.2 milli-ohms. At 15 amps, that's only 0.033 Volts of drop (15 x 0.0022) and only 495mW of power dissipation (15^2 * 0.0022). This part is rated up to 90 Amps (Id) and 30Volts (Vds) in a little TO-252 package for only $1.47 each. But, finding the right MOSFET and wiring it up isn't the tricky part. It's properly controlling the MOSFETs that's the hard part. If you accidently turn on the top and bottom FET on the same side of the H-bridge you can get 12V across 2, 0.0022 Ohms MOSFETS and you could have a shoot through current of over 2000 Amps (12 / (2 x 0.0022)). This would instantly fry both MOSFETs and since semiconductors tend to fail shorted it would continue to draw current even after the controller has turned the MOSFETs off thus frying the parts and most likely the board. Forget about the fuse protecting anything. A standard 30A automotive fuse can last over 10mS at 450 Amps and not blow. There should always be a small dead time between turning one MOSFET off and turning the other MOSFET on. The circuit should also be extensively tested to make sure it doesn't do anything weird during power up and loss of power conditions. One of my first SSR modules, for unknown reasons, released the magic smoke. I think I know why and my new 4-layer SSR modules have not blown up yet.

[jarance]

Thanks scott for the reply. So you managed to overcome the timing switching problem. I am still struggling with that circuit.

btw, Thank for the headup on the MOSFets chip. Will certainly look for the datasheet on it.

for layman term, the H-bridge is basically a rectifier bridge working in reverse with switchable control. (Am I talking sense?)

[jarance]

More on DC switching using H-bridge configuration:-

http://www.dprg.org/tutorials/1998-04a/

http://www.dprg.org/tutorials/1998-04a/hb6.png

[initialM]

Unker dun to kok ler me stupid cannot understand:sleep:

[jarance]

Unker dun to kok ler me stupid cannot understand:sleep:

sorry bro. Got carry away with my posting. It not everyday that I met people like adil and especially scott who are willing to share their knowledge in this forum. :top:







btw, I hear the ghee reputation in the market is contaminated.

[aidilj]

Yeah, 15 Amps is a lot, but, the duty cycle is small and if you get a good low on resistance MOSFETs the power dissipation is reasonable. For example, take the Infineon ID90N035S4L-02 MOSFET. It has an on resistance of 2.2 milli-ohms. At 15 amps, that's only 0.033 Volts of drop (15 x 0.0022) and only 495mW of power dissipation (15^2 * 0.0022). This part is rated up to 90 Amps (Id) and 30Volts (Vds) in a little TO-252 package for only $1.47 each. But, finding the right MOSFET and wiring it up isn't the tricky part. It's properly controlling the MOSFETs that's the hard part. If you accidently turn on the top and bottom FET on the same side of the H-bridge you can get 12V across 2, 0.0022 Ohms MOSFETS and you could have a shoot through current of over 2000 Amps (12 / (2 x 0.0022)). This would instantly fry both MOSFETs and since semiconductors tend to fail shorted it would continue to draw current even after the controller has turned the MOSFETs off thus frying the parts and most likely the board. Forget about the fuse protecting anything. A standard 30A automotive fuse can last over 10mS at 450 Amps and not blow. There should always be a small dead time between turning one MOSFET off and turning the other MOSFET on. The circuit should also be extensively tested to make sure it doesn't do anything weird during power up and loss of power conditions. One of my first SSR modules, for unknown reasons, released the magic smoke. I think I know why and my new 4-layer SSR modules have not blown up yet.

That is some MOSFET you have there, very low ON resistance. Your calculation make sense and I understand how this could be problem if both FET over postive and negative are switched ON together. Even if the delay is small enough that it doesn't cause a short or smokey FET, the component can be stressed out and causes premature failure.

I don't know if putting resistor at the gate would solve the problem by discharging the pin faster. For the turn ON delay maybe a capacitor? You probably have a better and more elegant solution.


Thanks scott for the reply. So you managed to overcome the timing switching problem. I am still struggling with that circuit.

btw, Thank for the headup on the MOSFets chip. Will certainly look for the datasheet on it.

for layman term, the H-bridge is basically a rectifier bridge working in reverse with switchable control. (Am I talking sense?)

Jarance, you are correct. H-bridge circuit is mainly used to control and drive motor both ways, forward and reverse. By selectively switching two adjacent transistors, motor will move in one direction. You don't want to turn on transistor A and C or B and D at the same time, this is a short circuit. Some delay would be required when switching motor direction making sure no short circuit happens, the issue that Scott had but you know that already..

[hakim_radzuan]

err you guys are too cool! hehe me dont understand too...hehehe

[scottjoh]

I don't know if putting resistor at the gate would solve the problem by discharging the pin faster. For the turn ON delay maybe a capacitor? You probably have a better and more elegant solution.

That won't work. There needs to be a guaranteed dead time between turn off and turn on of the other device. Simple cap/resistor circuits won't work and are not reliable enough. Plus an inhibit or disable during power up and power down is needed.

Oh, one other thing. The standard H-Bridge shown in post #143 above uses both NPN and PNP transistors which can be easily replaced with N-ch and P-ch MOSFETs. This isn't a problem except that the Infineon MOSFET that I mentioned earlier is an N-channel. Typically P-ch MOSFETs aren't nearly as good as N-Ch one. The On resistance (Rds on) of the best P-channel device in the same package is almost double. To make the high side and the low side symetrical engineers typically use N-ch MOSFETs in place of the P. The problem then becomes the gate of the high side MOSFET must be 10 volts higher than the drain to turn it on fully. Under normal car electronic conditions the drain will be up to 14.4V. So now a some kind of power supply is needed to get that extra 10 volts to ride on top of the high side FET drain.

[jarance]

scott, any new update on your I-Bus project?

A small question, can a Rs-485 (2 wired system) be adapted to read the I-Bus data.

[scottjoh]

scott, any new update on your I-Bus project?

A small question, can a Rs-485 (2 wired system) be adapted to read the I-Bus data.

Well it depends on which IBUS project. I have several. The CD Emulator one is on hold. I just made a huge order of new PC Boards with various projects on one panel. The panel contains 16 individual boards with 11 unique designs. 2 of those designs are for IBUS. One is a IBUS to USB that doesn't use the expensive and hard to get Melexis chip and the other is an IBUS to PIC micro that has 5 discrete outputs (for controlling lights or relays or whatever) and an ePOT for connecting to the wired remote input on Sony or Pioneer head units (IBUS steering wheel controls to control aftermarket head unit. I know it's been done, but, I'd rather do it myself.)

Just reading the I-Bus data to RS-485 shouldn't be a problem. Well actually RS-485 is a problem since 485 is bidirectional and multidrop differential. You need to use RS-422 which is similar in that it's +5V differential, but, not bidirectional and multidrop. There are separate pairs for data in each direction and it's point to point. Below is a schematic of a IBUS to RS-422 interface which uses a National LMS1485, RS-485 differential transceiver chip as a driver only (because I have some of those chips). For the I-Bus side I basically have taken the I-Bus read only interface from my I-Bus reader project http://ibusmodules.com/Reader.htm All you need is the BAT54 diode and the 10K Resistor and connect the RX line to pin 4 (DI) of the National Semi LMS1485 RS-485 transceiver. And pull pin 3 (DE) high. Added schematic
http://www.ibusmodules.com/Images/IBUS_RS422.gif

[jarance]

Thanks scott. Much appreciate your advise and inputs.

[jarance]

Aidil, check out this website if you have not done so about I-Bus.

http://web.archive.org/web/20041204074622/www.openbmw.org/bus/

[aidilj]

Jarance,

From the page, what I undestand is that I-bus is a one-wire serial interface connecting one master to multiple slaves. The bus is an open collector where the master pull it up to 12V, any slave who wishes to sent information needs to just pull it down accordingly. That is on the electrical side of it.

On data transmission, it is a 9600 baud serial interface so a microcontroller with UART function built-in like PICs would be able to communicate with the bus easily. Bit banging is an option if the microcontroller is fast enough or one need to resort to assembly programming.

The slow interface speed explains why my DICE iPod integration may hang sometimes. The master/slave can get confused if too many slaves flooding the wire.

Let me know if any of my understanding is off the mark.

Thanks

[jarance]

Aidil, I think scott would be a better person to answer you.

My experience with RS-485 is based on industrial standard. Normally, we have a delicate module based on peer to peer communication. Usually, there should be only 1 master and many slaves. If there are 2 or more masters, then there would be collision alarm. The slaves would not know who to response when both master ask for information from the same slave address.

btw, 9600 bauds rate is very slow. We usually use 19,800 bauds rate minimum.

scott, your input is highly appreciate.

btw, I look at the protocol coding between modbus and I-Bus, the hex coding is quite similar.

[scottjoh]

Jarance,

From the page, what I undestand is that I-bus is a one-wire serial interface connecting one master to multiple slaves. The bus is an open collector where the master pull it up to 12V, any slave who wishes to sent information needs to just pull it down accordingly. That is on the electrical side of it.

On data transmission, it is a 9600 baud serial interface so a microcontroller with UART function built-in like PICs would be able to communicate with the bus easily. Bit banging is an option if the microcontroller is fast enough or one need to resort to assembly programming.

The slow interface speed explains why my DICE iPod integration may hang sometimes. The master/slave can get confused if too many slaves flooding the wire.

Let me know if any of my understanding is off the mark.

Thanks

Yup. That's right. A PIC works great.

One more thing which the web site that jarance linked to. The E46 does not have an I-Bus. It only has a K-Bus. Everything that the E39 has on the I-Bus is on the K-Bus with everything else. Here is a list of almost everything on the bus. http://www.bmwgm5.com/E46_K-Bus.htm

[jarance]

I found this gadget on Restler web which is what I want for little project going 40 Euro for USB version
and 30 Euro the comm port version (who use comm port nowaday? well, I still do.)

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/Project%20Bus/Capture.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/Project%20Bus/Capture_2.jpg

[jarance]

And if you want the schematic for I_bus to RS-232 comm interface.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/Project%20Bus/Capture_4.jpg

[aidilj]

nice kit and for 40eur I think it is reasonably priced. Where do you plan to probe the I-bus from? If from the head unit, here's the pinout.

http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showpost.php?p=556522&postcount=16

[scottjoh]

Here is my I-Bus to USB module.
http://www.ibusmodules.com/Images/IBUS2USB.jpg

The Resler interface is 46 Euros total (6 Euros is for shipping) which is almost $59 USD. Mine is going to be a good deal less when I finish testing it with all the commonly used software.



Also I have updated post # 150 with a schematic of a I-Bus to RS422/485 read only design.

[aidilj]

And if you want the schematic for I_bus to RS-232 comm interface.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/pbjy/Project%20Bus/Capture_4.jpg

I'm making this circuit. This just came in through the mail.

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy197/aidilj/carputer/IMG_2611.jpg

[jarance]

aidil, what software are you planning to use?

customise?

[aidilj]

I'm using this to retain steering control for volume and track skipping. Frontend for the project would be either centrafuse or riderunner. Since the bus is thorughly hacked, some very interesting skins/plugins are available such as this.

http://www.danielbaratu.com/bmw/iGoBMW_bmw2.jpg

http://www.danielbaratu.com/bmw/iGoBMW_bmw2_2.jpg

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/rr-released-skins/117236-rel-igobmw-transparent.html

Cheers

[zas]

Guys would you'll be able to assist me to source this device, "central locking switch- for door (located near the gear console, was told it's together with the Hazard light switch) .

Tq

[jarance]

Guys would you'll be able to assist me to source this device, "central locking switch- for door (located near the gear console, was told it's together with the Hazard light switch) .

Tq

Its item #2

http://static.bmwfans.info/images/epc/MTcyNDY3X3A=.png (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E46/Sedan/Malaysia/325i-M54/RHD/N/browse/vehicle_electrical_system/various_switches/)
Various switches (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E46/Sedan/Malaysia/325i-M54/RHD/N/browse/vehicle_electrical_system/various_switches/) - BMW parts catalog (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/)

[zas]

Thx a lot Jarance, for the detail diagram.
Guys know where can I get a cheaper and reliable switch. Used also will do.
Coz I ask auto bavaria , they r selling about rm400!
Tq

[jarance]

Thx a lot Jarance, for the detail diagram.
Guys know where can I get a cheaper and reliable switch. Used also will do.
Coz I ask auto bavaria , they r selling about rm400!
Tq

I would certainly go hunting in the chopshop around Klang or Puchong area.

[bmw7833]

Thx a lot Jarance, for the detail diagram.
Guys know where can I get a cheaper and reliable switch. Used also will do.
Coz I ask auto bavaria , they r selling about rm400!
Tq

Zas, u asked from Bavarian Auto or Auto Bavaria? BA should be cheaper.

Try ebay otherwise!

[zas]

My remote kaput today . But ironically i notice it can unlock and lock my neighbour new proton saga . I try to follow your step to syn the remote . But when at the final step of "release the open button " I notice my neighbour proton saga open and lock itself. But still cannot open my car with the remote . Any idea . Thank you

[jarance]

zas do you have a spare key?

[initialM]

Anyone got any problem of general module or GM5. let me know. I got spare recondtioned unit.

[zas]

My spare key also cannot open my car. seem like it's out of sync . if the remote battery is 'kaput' , chances is it won't be able to lock and unlock my neighbour's proton car right. All this while both keys can connect with my car without problem. just so happen this afternoon only .
Now i've to lock manually. My car don't hv alarm all the while .

[jarance]

zas, last friday, I demo the procedure with bmw7833 car and my key aslo got desyn with my car.

I tried to re-syn it but could not. Could not understand why. Drove the car back to my home and
try the resyn procedure and it works again.

The ignition MUST be click to Position "1" (Accesory) only and all doors should be close.

[IanDaddy]

There could be a time-lock which disallow re-synch within certain fixed time !

[zas]

Quess what! This mornin I made another attempt to sync the key . This time I perform the step a little bit faster. Fortunately it work . I sync the spare key also.
Hopin it last . By the way is there battery inside the remote to be replace . If yes where to buy .
Thank to Jarance for the insightful information .

[jarance]

Quess what! This mornin I made another attempt to sync the key . This time I perform the step a little bit faster. Fortunately it work . I sync the spare key also.
Hopin it last . By the way is there battery inside the remote to be replace . If yes where to buy .
Thank to Jarance for the insightful information .

The battery inside the remote for diamond shape key are rechargeable type. The key are not design for battery replacement
cos they are completely sealed. However, the key can be cut open and the battery can be replaced. It have been done before.

Pasar road electronic shop have them or RS Component or Farnel carry stock for them.

[bmw7833]

zas, last friday, I demo the procedure with bmw7833 car and my key aslo got desyn with my car.

I tried to re-syn it but could not. Could not understand why. Drove the car back to my home and
try the resyn procedure and it works again.

The ignition MUST be click to Position "1" (Accesory) only and all doors should be close.

The key terkejut by my my car..hahh..


There could be a time-lock which disallow re-synch within certain fixed time !

Useful info, normally i keep re-syn and re-syn when i failed to make it..lol

[solo]

Quess what! This mornin I made another attempt to sync the key . This time I perform the step a little bit faster. Fortunately it work . I sync the spare key also.
Hopin it last . By the way is there battery inside the remote to be replace . If yes where to buy .
Thank to Jarance for the insightful information .

The battery inside the key is a rechargable Panasonic VL2020. It can be bought from the Panasonic service center. It will cost about RM32.

To change the battery you will have to carefully cut open the key, unsolder the battery holder then unsolder the battery from the battery holder.

Instructions to do all this can be found here -
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315311 or
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=451510 or
http://www.forums.bimmerfest.com/showthread.php?p=5707861 or
http://www.bmwclubmalaysia.com/forums/showthread.php?36644-diamond-shape-remote-key

You can also use a normal 2032 or 2025 battery and replace it when it goes flat. But you will need to dremel screw holes so you can replace the battery easily. There's a DIY for that here - http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/124181

Anyway, follow the instructions, it can be done because my dad and I did it.

Salut